DIY

How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets without sanding or priming!

June 23, 2014

Learn how to paint kitchen cabinets without sanding or priming with this step-by-step tutorial. Yes, painting kitchen cabinets yourself is possible AND the results are gorgeous and durable!

No way! You can paint your kitchen cabinets without sanding or priming. That makes the project totally doable. I can't wait to try it!

Hopefully, you have already read all about our kitchen remodel on a budget part 1 and part 2, which included painting our kitchen cabinets–DIY style. I have received TONS of questions about how we did it. So, I am here to tell you how to paint kitchen cabinets without losing your mind!  No priming or sanding required.  Isn't that good news?! 

UPDATE:  IF YOU WANT TO READ ALL ABOUT HOW THESE DIY PAINTED CABINETS ARE HOLDING UP AFTER 22 MONTHS, CLICK HERE

2019 UPDATE: It's been over 5 years now and our cabinets still look FANTASTIC. If you prefer video tutorials, be sure to check out my video training series–Total Cabinet Transformation.

2020 UPDATE: I recently tried an entirely new method for painting kitchen cabinets that is even easier–you can check out that post HERE.

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That's right, friends, I PAINTED MY KITCHEN CABINETS AND LIVED TO TELL YOU ABOUT IT!  I am not going to lie.  It was a time-consuming project, but we simplified it as much as possible.  It would have been much, much worse if I had followed those “how to paint kitchen cabinets like a professional” tutorials.

Here's the truth folks. I am NOT a professional painter. I am a busy, full-time working attorney with a busy, full-time working firefighter husband and we have busy 3 1/2 year old twins. THAT'S WHY WE DECIDED TO GO ALL-IN FOR PAINTING KITCHEN CABINETS LIKE AMATEURS WITH PROFESSIONAL RESULTS. If you are impatient and want to skip down to the tutorial, go ahead. If you are curious about how and why we decided to use the materials that we used, read this whole post because it will teach you not only how to paint kitchen cabinets without priming or sanding, but also why we made the decisions to use the products that we did.

A bit of background…

Now, I know a lot of you are reluctant to paint kitchen cabinets, and we were, too. We were really, really concerned about the durability of the paint since we hope that this makeover will carry us 5 to 10 years before we do a complete gut-job renovation. You may recall that I painted the cabinets in our laundry room about 9 months ago using regular latex paint that we had leftover from another project. Well, I am sad to tell you that some of that paint chipped off ON THE VERY FIRST DAY after we rehung the doors. So, you can see why we were nervous. But the finish on our kitchen cabinets was badly damaged and we didn't care for the orange oak look, so something had to be done.

Because of our concern about paint durability, we had all but decided to stain our cabinets using Java Gel Stain by General Finishes.  You have probably seen stunning cabinet transformations using the General Finishes Java Gel Stain all over the place.  Seriously amazing stuff.  And General Finishes generously sent me a sample of the Java Gel Stain to try out.

But as we exchanged emails about my kitchen project, the folks at General Finishes also mentioned that they have a line of Milk Paint, which is a high-quality acrylic paint that is very durable. WHAT’S THAT YOU SAY????  I was so excited about the possibilities.

This post contains some affiliate links for your convenience.  Click here to read my full disclosure policy.

After further exchanges, I learned that using the General Finishes Milk Paint in conjunction with General Finishes High-Performance Top Coat, our kitchen cabinets should withstand daily use just fine. YAY! Don’t get me wrong, I LOVE the Java Gel Stain cabinet projects I have seen, but I had dreamed of grey cabinets. It was my heart’s desire. So, General Finishes provided me with 3-pint sizes of the grey colors the Milk Paint comes in (Seagull Gray, Driftwood and Queenstown Gray) so I could test them out. You can order pint sizes on Amazon here.

When the pints arrived, I could not wait to see what they looked like on our cabinets. I mean, LITERALLY, I could not wait. I arrived home from work one afternoon, greeted my sweet Attley and Avery and asked them if they wanted to watch me paint a little bit. They did (they totally take after their momma and love all things crafty). I quickly, and rather sloppily, painted the three different gray colors on one of our upper cabinets.  I spent no more than 2 minutes doing it, and did not even try to use good technique, etc.

milk paint samples on outdated oak cabinets

First of all, I was completely amazed by how well one coat of the paint-covered our outdated oak cabinet. But what most impressed me about this paint is that YOU CANNOT SEE PAINT BRUSH MARKS. Seriously. There is not a brush mark to be seen on our cabinets. It’s amazing.  AND this paint dries quickly and is not tacky, like latex paints.  Are you ready for the best part?  YOU DON’T HAVE TO PRIME BEFORE YOU PAINT WITH THIS STUFF. I was sold. There was no question that I wanted to paint our cabinets with General Finishes Milk Paint.

I have to stress that I am NOT being compensated by General Finishes is any way whatsoever to recommend it to you. General Finishes did provide me with the paint I needed to complete my project, but all opinions are 100% my own. I am recommending it to you solely because it is AMAZING. I honestly would recommend against painting kitchen cabinets unless you use General Finishes Milk Paint. We only painted ours because we found this awesome paint.

How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets Without Sanding or Priming

Materials Needed:

There are so many detailed tutorials about how to paint your cabinets like the professionals.  That is not what I am going to give you.  I am going to tell you how to paint your kitchen cabinets without losing your mind, but WITH professional results.

Steps:

First note that we worked in sections (i.e., kitchen island one day, upper cabinets sink area another day, etc.) We also elected NOT to paint the interior of our cabinets because they are in good shape and frankly, we did not have the time or patience to do it. This saved us the added hassle of having to pack up our entire kitchen. We left everything in place in our cabinets. This allowed us to remain sane through the process because the kitchen was still usable, which was pretty vital for our busy family of 4. Now, here are the steps you will need to follow to paint your kitchen cabinets:

1) Remove all hardware.

2) Remove doors and drawers. You will have to empty your drawers, but everything can stay in your cabinets!

DIY painted kitchen cabinets

3) If you don’t like the color of your hinges, you can spray paint them! It's way more economical than buying new ones. Our old hinges and screws were brass–not a good look with gray cabinets.  So, we spray painted our hinges AND the screws with Valspar Brushed Nickel Spray Paint and topped them with Valspar Satin Clear Coat.

DIY spray painted hinges

spray painted screws for painted kitchen cabinets

Valspar metallic spray paint and top coat

4) Wipe down cabinets, doors and drawers to remove any dirt and grime (we used Lysol wipes).

5) Wipe down cabinets, doors and drawers with liquid de-glosser, like this one Rust-Oleum Zinsser Deglosser. This is a quick wipe down. You do not need to scrub the old finish off. In fact, your cabinets may not look any different after you wipe them down—that is okay.

6) Patch any holes that you will not be reusing with spackle and sand appropriately.

7) If you are using General Finishes Milk Paint, DO NOT SAND!  DO NOT PRIME!  If you are using any other kind of paint, I am sorry to say that you probably cannot skip these steps.

So, step 8 is… get busy painting. We applied two coats of the General Finishes Milk Paint.  We used a paint brush for detail work and a dense foam roller for larger surfaces.   We used 3 quarts of the Seagull gray and 2 pints of the Driftwood. We also used about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. This paint gives excellent coverage and goes a long way.

DIY painted kitchen cabinets without sanding or priming

painting kitchen cabinets without emptying them

painting kitchen cabinets without emptying them

NOTE: You can see in the photo above that we had not yet painted the crown molding and/or trim white.  It was still the color of puke and looked HORRIBLE with the wall color.  You can read all about the painting of the trim and what a difference it made here.

8) After you paint has dried for the correct amount of time (see details on the General Finishes can, but I can tell you this paint dries faster than any other paint I have ever used), you are ready to apply the General Finishes High-Performance Top Coat. We applied the recommended 3 (yes THREE) coats of the topcoat. Rest assured this step moves fairly quickly.

9) Once everything is dry, rehang your doors and replace your drawers.

10) Attach your hardware. We ditched our old hardware (not my style) and replaced it with Ikea LANSA Stainless Steel Drawer Cabinet Pulls. We have a lot of cabinets and doors, so we spent just over $300 on hardware, but I think it was well worth it. It really updates the space. Don't have an Ikea nearby? Don't worry, Amazon has you covered. It offers all the different lengths that Ikea does, but I have to tell you, they are more expensive on Amazon.

That’s it. We completed this project over the course of 2 weekends and many nights after work. I am not going to lie, it is time-consuming, but so worth the effort. I mean, LOOK at the transformation from painting kitchen cabinets.

outdated oak kitchen cabinets

DIY painted cabinets after

diy painted kitchen cabinets before and after

ADDED September 2018: Now, I know there are LOTS of you out there that are going to read this and think it sounds too good to be true and/or have a zillion other questions that I can't possibly answer in one blog post. We still get questions about this post almost every single day (in fact, it’s the reason I finally had to turn my blog comments off a while back). Because though I detailed exactly how we transformed our oak cabinets with gray paint, people wonder how the process will work on different cabinets with different colors. So we get questions like…

  • Can I use this to paint my laminate kitchen cabinets?
  • How do you think the white paint color would work on my very dark cabinets?
  • Can I this paint this over existing painted kitchen cabinets?
  • Did you REALLY not sand in between coats?
  • How much pressure do I need to apply when I use the deglosser?

So after seeing the need to address all these questions and after countless requests, I finally decided to create a video training series for those of you that have questions and concerns that just can’t be answered in a single blog post.

My video series, Total Cabinet Transformation, is now available. If you want to update your kitchen, but can’t afford to replace your cabinets or hire a painter to paint them for you, this is the training for you. It’s short, but thorough. In about an hour, you will know everything you need to transform your kitchen cabinets the “lazy” way. Minimal effort. Maximum results.

Total Cabinet Transformation Video Course-How to Paint Your Kitchen Cabinets

Total Cabinet Transformation Video Course-How to Paint Your Kitchen Cabinets

You can also read all about how we transformed our kitchen backsplash by painting it.  Talk about a thrifty transformation!  (We did replace it about a year later, but not because the paint wasn't holding up–it still looked great, but you can see our new laminate backsplash here). And if you haven't check out the full reveal, I hope you will–there is A LOT more to see!  You can see part 1 of the reveal here, and part 2 of the reveal here.  You can also learn all about our pantry makeover here.

I am so grateful to have found General Finishes Milk Paint.  I am so happy to have the gray cabinets of my dreams and there is not a nick, ding or scratch (or brush mark) anywhere so far.  We are thrilled with how durable the finish is.

UPDATE:  IF YOU WANT TO READ ALL ABOUT HOW THESE CABINETS ARE HOLDING UP AFTER 22 MONTHS, CLICK HERE

LATEST UPDATE: It's been over 5 years now and our cabinets still look FANTASTIC.

2020 UPDATE: I recently tried an entirely new method for painting kitchen cabinets that is even easier–you can check out that post HERE.

What do you think?  Have you thought about painting kitchen cabinets using DIY methods?  What’s stopping you?  And if you love this project, be sure to pin it for later!

Total Cabinet Transformation- Kitchen Cabinet Painting Videos

Before you head out, be sure to check out these other posts before you paint your kitchen cabinets. The more info you have before you start, the better! Just click on either of the images below to check out the posts.

Are you wondering "should I paint my kitchen cabinets?" Be sure to ask yourself these 9 crucial questions before you make a decision about painting kitchen cabinets!

I was not financially compensated for this post. I received free product from General Finishes to complete my project.   The opinions are completely my own based on my experience.

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  1. Sandra Ashley says:

    I was wondering if I could buy the same colors you used in gallons, and if so, where do I order? Love your work.

    • Tasha says:

      Hi Sandra! If you click the pink link for the paint in the source list and you will see what is available to buy. Thanks for reading!

  2. Corey says:

    Im trying out your technique on our cabinets. Using the Seagull Gray color. After putting on 2 coats the brush strokes are still visible on the drawer. What do you recommend to get rid of them? First coat i used a foam brush, second coat i tried a bristle brush

    • Tasha says:

      It goes on smoothly, but there may be some brush strokes. If they were already painted under your paint, the underlying stroke marks will always be there. We did use a foam roller, so maybe that is the difference?

  3. Hannah says:

    We painted our cabinets this way about 1 month ago! The cabinets are still beautiful! We painted then white and on our peninsula, we replaced the laminate with wainscoting! As for the laminate on the side of some of the cabinets, we applied deglosser and painted the same way. Because our cabinets were a little darker, we used primer as well. We ran out of deglosser and had to sand some. The deglosser actually worked BETTER than the sanding! Finally, we had 23 cabinet doors and 13 drawers. It took about 1.5 gallons of milk paint. On another note, we ordered paint from amazon. The paint busted during shipment. It was a hot mess. We still had enough paint for the project and it didn’t seem to mess anything up!!
    Thank you so much for this recommendation!! We love our results!

    • Hannah says:

      Is there any way I can post a picture? I’d love to share our results!

      • Tasha says:

        Hi Hannah! I would LOVE to see them! Do you subscribe to my newsletter? I am starting a new series to give readers a chance to share certain projects every month. January will be cabinets! Details will be in the next newsletter, so hurry and sign up if you haven’t already!

    • Tasha says:

      Oh my. That shipping situation made me sweat for real. I am SO glad it all worked out. Great job on your cabinet makeover!

  4. Kattie hermann says:

    Hello I have been wanting to paint my cabinets for two years.. but I have two small children. This seems to good to be true! How did you get a sample to try? I would love to try before I buy the whole gallon of paint.. and not like it

    • Tasha says:

      General Finishes sent me pint size cans to try out—it’s just a perk of being a DIY blogger.  The samples I referred to were just their pint size paints.  You can order the same pint size cans on Amazon here: http://amzn.to/20sCPe8.

  5. Julie says:

    Hi Tasha! After much research we chose to follow your simple and well- written instructions. We followed all instructions to the letter. I LOVE the look of my cabinets! However, after two months after the paint job they are a little “peely ” around the knobs. The paint is kind of flaking off. I’m so sad after all that work. Any tips?? We did the two coats of paint followed by three coats of top coat. We also used the defroster. Same oak cabinets. and purchased all the same brands that were recommended. Please help!

    • Julie says:

      Whoops! Deglosser. :)

    • Tasha A. says:

      Oh no Julie! I have no idea–we still aren’t having any peeling or chipping. My only thought is that maybe since you have knobs instead of handles like us that your hands/skin actually come into contact with the paint more and have worn it down in those areas? I would think you could touch up just those areas with the paint and then top coat again. Keep me posted!

  6. Lauri says:

    Thanks for sharing your experience and tips…very helpful! I’m experimenting with a bathroom vanity and hoping to get brave enough to tackle my kitchen of 43 cabinets…yikes…now wishing I had a smaller kitchen ;-) I see that you initially used a liquid sandpaper/deglosser. GF recommends light sanding between each coat of paint and also between each coat of top coat. Did you do that? Thanks again for sharing!

  7. Malissa Hatfield says:

    According to your blog you didn’t have to sand your cabinets before applying. But according to the manufacture website you are to sand them first. So now I am very confused. I really want to redo my cabinets, but don’t want to do the work of sanding that is why your blog caught my eye. I don’t want to sand or have the chip like my bathroom did. Any suggestions on what is right LOL

    • Tasha A. says:

      Hi Malissa. That’s correct, I didn’t sand and mine are still holding up beautifully. I DID use liquid sandpaper/deglosser, which is much faster and easier than sanding.

    • Stacey says:

      Thanks for your post. I am currently in the middle of using the GF gel to refinish my balcony and stairs, very pleased so far. My question about the milk paint…..an you use it on cabinets that have already been painted? My next project is to update my kitchen and would love to use the milk paint however our kitchen was painted black by the previous owner. Any idea if the GF milk paint would work? Thanks so much!

      • Tasha says:

        I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.”  I hope that helps!

  8. Stephanie says:

    I followed directions exactly as specified. I am using Snow White on our Oak cabinets that look almost exactly like yours. I cleaned them, applied the liquid sandpaper, then applied one coat. It looked awful. I applied a second coat, it looks slightly better. Just applied the 3rd coat, and can see that I need one more. I am using a dense foam roller like the one you used. I don’t see how you got away with two coats of the paint. I have also tried applying paint with a brush and the brush marks are very visible.

    • Tasha says:

      I think the big difference is the color or the paint. I have heard from a few readers that their experience with the Snow White is different than ours.

  9. Michelle says:

    I signed up for emails – how long will it take to be able to access the printable instructions?

  10. […] 4) How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets without Sanding or Priming! {Designer Trapped in a Lawyer’s Body} […]

  11. Jenna says:

    Hi Tasha,

    I’m looking at using this approach for my own kitchen cabinets and was so encouraged to find your blog and see that our cabinets are so similar in style! Mine also have vertical grooves. I was wondering — how did you handle those? Did you worry about getting down in there with the paint? If so, what tool did you use?

    I was considering purchasing a paint sprayer and applying that way for this very reason. Any insight you can give me about how you handled the grooves would be so very appreciated.

    Thanks!

    -Jenna

  12. Meghan Woodcox says:

    Hello- Just checking to see how your cabinets have held up now that it’s been about 2 years. Would you still use this paint on your cabinets? We are about to paint our cabinets and want to use this paint, thanks to your tutorial! Happy Monday

  13. Jenni Kwilos says:

    Hello-
    I’m glad I found this article on Pinterest to help me find the General Finishes paint and top coat, It is wonderful. BUT- we chose to use Snow White on 1990’s honey oak cabinets, and you MUST sand and prime those. Even the General Finishes website says that. When I started on my island’s two doors, yellow kept coming up through the primer. Folks at Lowe’s said that it was the old finish that hadn’t been sanded off. We sanded the rest of the doors much more thoroughly, and used two coats of Kilz premium primer, and they look great.

  14. […] found a product to paint the cabinets without having to sand them here (I’m skeptical but this stuff seems legit), and I’m contemplating swapping out the […]

  15. Chrissy says:

    Thank you for your great advice, everything looks beautiful. I applied your steps to refinishing an ugly oak table and it turned out amazing!! More than I ever expected it to look! Thank you

  16. Robyn says:

    Did you roll or use a brush to apply top coat? Staring my Renovation tomorrow!

  17. Deb says:

    Been thinking about painting oak cabinets…but don’t want the grain to show through. ..how did you keep it from showing thru the paint?

    • Tasha says:

      Hi Deb! I don’t know of any paint that totally prevents the grain from showing.

      • DJ says:

        Tasha if you ever decide to keep the original finish on any wood try a product I have used for years to clean and repair the finish and keep it original it was invented for antiques and used for any wood that doesn’t look perfect. Just thought you might like my go to product. I resell furniture and this stuff is wonderful. Its called The Victorian House Finish Rejuvenator. FYI http://www.thevictorianhouseproducts.com

  18. Mona horwitz says:

    Click here for instructions but nothing happens when I click here!

    • Tasha says:

      Hi Mona! When you click for the printable instructions, you have to signup for emails and they will be emailed to you. Thanks!

  19. Michelle says:

    I’m just curious as to which top coat you used. there a few to choose from. Thanks

  20. Catherine says:

    Tasha, you did a wonderful job and that is indeed an amazing transformation. I recently redid my laundry room in a similar fashion and I love it.

  21. Mindy Owen says:

    You did an amazing job! Loved reading all about it.

    I was just wondering what the paint deglosser does exactly? is it necessary, or just personal taste?

    • Tasha says:

      It is absolutely necessary. It takes the place of sandpaper and roughs up the surface. Good luck!

  22. Nicole says:

    Hi! I’m in the middle of painting our cabinets with this milk paint thanks to your post. So thank you! Question, I just read the directions on the top coat and it says to sand the top coat in between each coat. Did you do this step?

    • Tasha says:

      I skipped all sanding! Good luck!

      • Danielle says:

        I am in the middle of painting my bathroom cabinets as well & was just going to ask the same question – yay! I am in love with the milk paint- may do the kitchen next. Also, how long did you wait between top coat finishes to re-apply?

  23. Richard Rousseau says:

    Wow ! Really great result !

  24. Cory says:

    Amazing job! Did you use the same paint on your backsplash? Is it the same color as the island?

  25. Debby says:

    Can’t find that brand of paint. Is there another brand of the same quality that I can search for?

  26. Ashley says:

    Hi I’m wondering how your painted cabinets are holding up? Would you use this product again if you had to chose? Thinking of painting mine, but wanted to see how yours have been holding up! Thanks

  27. Stuart says:

    Great blog, I’m going to follow you from now on. Thanks for the detailed description, I’m going to give it a shot. Quick question…..you used grey paint yet your finished pictures look white….what am I missing?

    • Tasha says:

      Thanks Stuart! It is a really light gray. May look more like white on your monitor? Thanks for reading!

  28. Colleen says:

    whee did you find the Zinsser paint deglosser? I have looked everywhere1 Is there a comparable prduct that you can recommend Thanks!

    • Colleen says:

      Oh gosh! Please ignore those horrible typos! There is something wrong with my screen and I couldn’t see the words. I appreciate your advice!

    • Tasha says:

      In the post is a link to the product on Amazon. That is the one I used! Thanks

  29. Sherry schutz says:

    How do you paint wood paneling without it still lookin like paneling? Can you cover the stripes?

  30. Maria says:

    Gorgeous results!! Where did you buy your pendant lights over your counter? They’re such a fun addition!

    Thanks!

  31. Yadira says:

    Hello
    I love your cabinets, I do have a question some of my cabinets are dirty with grease do I used a regular greaser remover or what do you vex omens?

    • Tasha says:

      I guess I am lucky–mine are not particularly greasy! You could try a degreaser or maybe start gentler and work up to it. Good luck!

  32. lynele mcgill says:

    would this work on laminated cabinets?

    • Tasha says:

      I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.”  I hope that helps!

  33. Jaymee Orton says:

    I really enjoy your blog and I love the bar pulls you’ve chosen. I want to put them in my kitchen, but the longest I can find from Amazon, Ikea and Lowes is 9 3/4. Where did you find the really long ones? Yours look to be about 16-17 inches. I need 5 different lengths. Thanks. I

  34. […] How To Paint Kitchen Cabinets Without Sanding Or Priming […]

  35. Shirley says:

    Will this product work on a ceiling with vanished rafters and tung-n-groove?

  36. Liz says:

    Great tips Tasha! Thanks. And the new hardware you chose totally finishes the look so beautifully. I’ve never heard of General milk paint, but i am going to check it out for sure!

  37. Wendy says:

    Hi! Your cabinets look great! I’ve been thinking about painting my builder grade ugly oak cabinets for years but never have done it because it’s such a huge job. After you painted your cabinets, does the wood grain show through, or does it look smooth with no grain showing? Thanks!

  38. Estella says:

    Where can I get the milk pain? Is it available at the larger hardware stores?

    • Tasha says:

      The post includes a link for amazon. You would need to dod some research to see which stores carry which paint!Good luck and thanks for reading!

  39. […] How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets without sanding or priming! […]

  40. Heidi says:

    For the top coat did you use the water base top coat or the polyurethane base top coat?
    Thanks for the post. We are buying an older home and don’t have money to replace the cabinets… they will look brand new with this stuff :)

  41. Cindy says:

    Did the milk paint on the kitchen cabinets cover the grain of the oak?
    .

  42. Karen says:

    Tasha…you are totally awesome!!! I love your blog, all of your projects and all the work you have done and I can’t wait to get started on my kitchen but could you please tell me what size the handles on your cabinets are…my hubby says about 20″ but I think he’s wrong (don’t tell him)!

    • Tasha says:

      Well every handle is different depending on the size of the door it is on. The big ones are probably around 20″ but you would need to measure your cabinets!

  43. Tammy says:

    Did you paint your backsplash as well? If so, what did you use? Thanks!

  44. Karen says:

    Tasha can you tell me the size of your cabinet doors and what size handles you purchased please.

  45. Candy Walsh says:

    Gorgeous! I’m planning on going with gray as well, what is your wall color? I’m having trouble trying to coordinate that. My kitchen, dining and living room areas are all open to each other.
    Thanks for the awesome tutorial as well~I’m gonna need it, lol.

  46. What made you choose a flat finish top coat? I’m going to attempt my cabinets after being inspired by you! However, I’m using the Snow White on the cabinets. When something has splattered, there has been busy little fingers on your cabinets,, have you been able to wipe them off easily without the finish being compromised?

    • Tasha says:

      They flat topcoat adds just enough sheen that they are wipeable. Also, I feel like that we don’t get a ton of fingerprints because of the style pulls we used! (happy accident!!!)

  47. Donna says:

    But can my Thermofoil kitchen cabinets be painted with this product?

  48. Dana says:

    Will general finishes milk paint work on melamine cabinets without priming or sanding? I need to know before purchasing any paint.

    • Tasha says:

      I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.”  I hope that helps!

  49. Paula says:

    This looks amazing! I believe I may attempt this project. What is the name of the gray color in the middle? Thank you for sharing the instructions, we’re on a budget and this could be our answer to out kitchen remodel.

  50. Karin Varner says:

    I am getting ready to use your method on my small vanity in the guest bathroom; just to see how well it works and if I like the look.
    As far as the top coat goes, did you sand between the 3 coats on that?
    Thanks

  51. Miranda says:

    Did you paint the inside of your doors, even though you didn’t paint the inside of the cabinets?

  52. Ellen Sonnier says:

    Where can I get sample colors to try before buying full size? Your cabinets look great & i’m trying to get up the nerve to paint mine this way! Thanks for all the good instructions!

    • Tasha says:

      General Finishes sent me pint size cans to try out—it’s just a perk of being a DIY blogger.  The samples I referred to were just their pint size paints.  You can order the same pint size cans on Amazon here: http://amzn.to/20sCPe8. Thanks for reading and good luck!

  53. Lesley says:

    Your cabinets look beautiful! Thank you for this awesome page, which my husband and I will be using to refinish our cabinets. How much of the deglosser did use?

    • Tasha says:

      I did a quick wipe down, not a “scrub.” The amount would depend how many cabinets you have to do. Hope that helps!

  54. Ellen Sonnier says:

    How can I get samples of the different colors to try? I like the way you used the darker shade on your island.

    • Tasha says:

      General Finishes sent me pint size cans to try out—it’s just a perk of being a DIY blogger.  The samples I referred to were just their pint size paints.  You can order the same pint size cans on Amazon here: http://amzn.to/20sCPe8. Thanks for reading!

  55. Katy says:

    Oh I am so excited! Thanks for your post! We are planning to try this on a our new home kitchen cabinets we just purchased. My only concern is with yellowing. We have icky yellow oak cabinets too. I plan to paint them white. The GF milk paint product pages advises priming on surfaces known to bleed yellow like oak. Did you have any yellowing issues with the light gray?

    • Tasha says:

      I didn’t have any bleeding so I can’t say. If you are really worried I would prime! Good luck!

  56. Kristy says:

    Did you only use one coat of milk paint? Thanks for clarifying…my cabinets are getting ready for a new look….took the rest of the hardware off today!

  57. Karina says:

    How is the odor for this milk-based paint? I want to try it on our bathroom vanity but we do not have windows in that room, but do have a vent. Thanks!

    • Tasha says:

      We used it in our powder room and it doesn’t have any windows and we didn’t have a problem! Good luck!

  58. Becca says:

    Does it cover already painted crappy cabinets?

    • Tasha says:

      I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.”  I hope that helps!

  59. Debbie says:

    I’ve been staring at outdated cabinets for a while now, and reading up on all the ways to paint them. Many approaches sound fine, but your post was the one that got me moving to do it. Sanding and prep were keeps this project out of reach for me. I’ve used the deglosser on other projects and know it works very well. But KITCHEN cabinets have to look beetle than “good enough.” Thank you for your time and info!

  60. Jennifer Andras says:

    Have you by chance tried this on any floors? Laminate or vinyl? I’ve done our cabinets and I’m really tempted to do the floors….we are moving and don’t really want to pay for new….but this might be the perfect time( plan to do gray with white dry brush) to do what seems to be on trend in flooring.

    • Tasha says:

      I highly recommend you ONLY use porch and floor paint for floors! It can stand up to the wear and tear. Thanks!

  61. Saskia says:

    Hi, I wanted to get the printable instructions for this project, but for some reason the link does not seem to work.

    • Tasha says:

      It is actually a link to subscribe to my newsletter and then you will receive a link after you do that. If that link is not working you need to install adobe acrobat. You can find instructions for that by googling! THanks and hope that helps.

  62. Fernando says:

    Is that paint safe to paint my kitchen counter? thanks

    • Tasha says:

      I have no idea since our counters are a different material. I would contact the company! Thanks for reading.

  63. képline says:

    Sound like a project for me to save time and money ! I was thinking of painting my kitchen cabinets without removing them. Am I being too lazy or you could do that ?

  64. Elisabeth says:

    Hi Tasha,

    Great tutorial! I have one quick question, do you remember, did you wait the full 2-3 hours between top coats?

    Thanks,

    Elisabeth

    • Tasha says:

      I honestly don’t remember but I would say go ahead if that is what the directions say. Thanks for reading and good luck!

  65. Kathya says:

    Thank you for this blog post and the update on how it’s holding up after all this time. I’m curious…we have wood cabinets in the kitchen, but the recessed inserts are made of a laminate or something like that. Do you happen to know if the milk paint would adhere as nicely to that as it does real wood? It seems like to would, if you made sure the surface was clean and prepped like the wood. Any thoughts or suggestions?

    • Tasha says:

      I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.”  I hope that helps!

  66. Erika says:

    Hello! Amazing job! We would like to paint our cabinets but I wanted to ask you a question… Did your cabinets have a gloss coat before you painted them? My cabinets have this gloss coat to them and I don’t know if I should use a de-glosser on them or not.

    • Tasha says:

      Hi Erika! We used a de-glosser. The link to the exact one is in the post! Thanks for reading!

  67. […] the latest interior inspiration and design pictures and tips for each room, from House and Garden. How To Paint Kitchen Cabinets Without Sanding Or Priming in Can U Paint Kitchen Cabinets Browse hundreds of inspiring images of home decor ideas and interior decorating images inside our […]

  68. […] Paint outdated cabinets- Many homes have solid wood cabinets that are in fantastic structural shape, but the finish is worn or outdated.  You can easily update them, and you don’t have have to sand or prime first.  Check out just how dramatic the change can be below.  Learn how to paint your kitchen cabinets without priming or sanding here. […]

  69. Amy says:

    Hello, (Not sure if I sent this the other day or not, so forgive me if I did.) I am about to apply the top coat to my cabinets and I am curious if you used a sponge brush as it says on the can or a regular paint brush. Also, did if you sand between coats? I have been following your step by step instructions and so far so good, but I was curious about how you applied that top coat. Thanks! I am loving it so far!! This Milk Paint is AMAZING!

  70. Dawn says:

    How many cabinets did you paint? Just trying to figure out about how much we will need. I am really wanting to paint our cabinets. It’s one of the last steps to redoing our kitchen. Before reading this, I was really loathing painting my cabinets. This gives me hope :)

    • Tasha says:

      If you look at the pictures closely on the post (there is a good before and after that shows one side of my kitchen) and the pictures closer to the beginning show the other half) that is all of the them! Hope that helps and good luck!

  71. Amy says:

    Did you sand between each top coat and did you use a foam brush for the top coat?

  72. Jodi says:

    I am in the process of painting my kitchen cabinets now, after reading your post! I have to say the General Finishes Milk paint is awesome! I am about half way through and am loving the way they are looking! A couple of questions for you….I read that you chose the flat finish rather than the satin finish for the top coat….does the flat have any sheen or shine to it? I was thinking of using the Satin and wanted your opinion. And also, what kind of prep did you do to your hardware before you sprayed them? And what brand of spray paint did you use? Thank you for inspiring me!!

    • Tasha says:

      I chose the flat because the less sheen the less imperfections you see. The flat does still have plenty of sheen for me! I think I used Valspar spary paint and I didn’t do anything before I sprayed the hardware! Good luck and thanks for reading!

  73. Valerie says:

    HI, I love the kitchen Reno! I was wondering how you contacted the company for the samples. I have looked all over the website and have not been able to find the info. I would like to do the same colours with my kitchen but am looking for more info on wether to do the regular gel stain or try the milk stains what is the better option for coverage and durability?

    • Tasha says:

      General Finishes sent me pint size cans to try out—it’s just a perk of being a DIY blogger. The samples I referred to were just their pint size paints. You can order the same pint size cans on Amazon here: http://amzn.to/20sCPe8.

  74. Rob says:

    I was wondering how well the paint job has held up to the daily abuse your cabinets take. And chipping or bleeding of the original wood color through the paint?

  75. Tracey says:

    These cabinet are wonderful. I’d like to copy the look but with a darker color. I’m thinking water based milk paint in Dark Chocolate- will this work also? . I have a question about the high gloss finish do you think a satin or semi gloss finish would be work? Why did you choose the flat finish?
    It’s this the same product you got General Finishes water based high performance polyurethane top coat in satin (just a diff finish) or is the polyurethane a different product? Thanks for your help and your inspiration !
    Tracey

    • Tasha says:

      I use flat because it still has plenty of sheen for my taste and the lower the sheen the less imperfections you can see. The one I used is a link in the post! Thanks

  76. Susan says:

    What a beautiful transformation! I am inspired now to paint the golden oak woodwork throughout my house. Did the milk paint cover the grain in the oak? I painted the oak cabinet in our bathroom, but the grain showed through the latex paint I used, even after 2 coats, which was not the look I wanted. Thank you!

    • Tasha says:

      It will still show through. I have never been successful using paint to mask the grain. Good luck!

  77. Veronica says:

    You have really inspired me to try this out. I have never done a painting project before so I am going to start small with my ugly oak cabinets in my bathroom. I am going to follow your steps, thank you. Is it true that you need to paint as soon as the deglosser dries (approx 1 hour) or you have to do this step again? Curious what your timing was.

  78. Teresa says:

    Did you paint the underside of the cabinets?

  79. Sonia says:

    Are your cabinets wood veneer or raw natural wood? I bought the General Finishes milk paint recommended by a friend so I’m very happy that I found your post recommending the same paint! My cabinets are wood but they are finished with a smooth wood veneer in a dated maple color so I wonder if I need to prime them first to make sure that the milk paint adheres to the surface. I appreciate your help!

    • Tasha says:

      Our cabinets are wood with a finish that was damaged and chipping. I have never tried it on a veneer cabinet, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

  80. Jana says:

    I am using this product right now and it is working great! I ordered from Amazon because they seemed to have the best price and free shipping. I ended up paying about $90 for two quarts of antique white and one quart of top coat. Expensive but ok if it does the job. The supplier on my order was West Michigan Finishes and they send a card with my order. I went to their website and found out I could have ordered the exact same thing directly through them for $60 with shipping. So, this is a public service announcement if you are considering using this product – save yourself over 30% and go to http://www.wmfinishes.com. I think I need another quart and will be headed there soon!

  81. Emily Scott says:

    Thank you so much for posting this! We will be painting our cabinets next weekend using General Finishes. I have some questions about how you applied the top coat. Did you roll it on or apply with a brush? Also did you sand between each of the three coats? You mentioned this step went quickly so I was weary of the instructions from General Finishes.

  82. Christine says:

    Did you put the topcoat on with a brush or roller? Thanks for the tutorial, I think I’m going to tackle mine!

  83. Patricia Hales says:

    So my cabinets have a deep wood grain, do you think only 2 coats of paint will be enough to hide the wood grain? Should I use a primer to only need 2 coats?

    • Tasha says:

      I don’t know of any paint that will cover the wood grain, no matter how many coats you use. Good luck!

  84. Tammy says:

    Beautiful! Could you tell me what you used to apply the topcoat.

  85. Ana says:

    What does the finish feel like? We did our dining room table with chalk paint and it feels, well, chalky even with the wax. I’d like a smoother finish and hoping milk paint can deliver. Thoughts?

    • Tasha says:

      Milk paint feels chalky but the topcoat gives it a nice smooth finish. Good luck!

  86. Karen says:

    I just starting painting my cabinets 2 days ago, and like you, I could not wait!!! I am amazed by this paint! It goes on super easy and dries so fast. I’m so pleased with the results so far and pumped I found your blog!

  87. Andi says:

    Oh my gosh this is an amazing discovery! My husband probably won’t be too thrilled that I want to add yet another project to our list, but this looks too easy to pass up. Thank you!!

  88. Alan says:

    What if a person wanted to use some glaze to give the cabinets a rustic look. Would you just do the glazing before the three coats of topcoat?

  89. Pam says:

    Will this paint work on outdoor, porch railings, where I can NOT get the old white paint all off? I wanted to put a stain on instead, but not having much luck so far, after several tries with heavy duty stripper. I was ready to tear down the porch rails till I realized building code requires them. Thanks – your cabinets look great!

    • Tasha says:

      I have never used it outside. I would contact General Finishes and ask. I do know it would be super expensive if you have a lot of railings! Good luck!

  90. Laura says:

    Hi! Beautiful job! I am getting ready to paint my kitchen cabinets and am excited to try the products you used. I was curious about the tiles in the pictures. Did you paint them or just do them over? Have a great day!

    • Tasha says:

      Thanks so much Laura! We have actually done both… read this one for info on painting them https://designertrapped.com/paint-a-tile-backsplash/ and this one for the information on the formica we did later

      Kimberly says:

      Beautiful! Do you happen to know if this will work on laminate cabinets? We’re in the long, tedious process of refinishing ours . I was wiping one off the other day and the paint came off on the cloth! We are using Kilz and regular paint.

      • Tasha says:

        I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • DeShawn Kadur says:

      So I had already started sanding my bathroom cabinets when I seen this on Pinterest. I only did the first part of the Sanding. Will I still be able to use the the General Finishes Milk Paint?

    • Tyler says:

      Your kitchen looks amazing. We’re going to do all our bathroom and kitchen cabinets with this paint.
      Our cans arrived this afternoon, I’m excited for the transformation.

      The top coat says to sand in between coats, did you guys sand yours or just recoat after 2-4 hours?

      • Tasha says:

        We did not sand between top coats. We did three coats, not sure how long we waited in between, but probably 2-4 hours is accurate. Good luck and happy painting.

    • karen says:

      This paint is the best! I’m doing my laundry room cabinets and absolutely love it! And I only have the first coat of topcoat on. Hands down its the best paint I have ever used! I did let the guy at the hardware store talk me into a primer called stix. I couldn’t find the deglosser recommended here. After the first coat of paint, I was a little worried, but 2 coats of paint did the trick! Best and easiest paint project in years. Highly recommnded! Next project will be the bathroom cabinets.

    • jane says:

      are there people i can hire to do this for me? thanks

      • Tasha says:

        I am not sure Jane, but I would call local painting companies and ask! Thanks for reading.

    • Allison says:

      What a fantastic DIY post, Tasha — thank you! I’ve taken notes, and my husband and I are going to tackle the cabinets in our upstairs loft, then the ones in our laundry room. You are an inspiration! :)

    • Gia Ferguson says:

      WOW! Your kitchen is fabulous! Thanks for the great instructions, but, how about you come do mine for me?? Please? LOL! I don’t know if I have enough patience to even start! GREAT JOB!

      • Tasha says:

        Thanks Gia!!! I think I am going to take a kitchen break after all the work we did on ours, LOL. Good luck–you can do it!!!

    • Gretchen says:

      Were all of your cabinets oak? The doors and faces of our are solid wood, but the end caps are all pressed wood with a laminate over it. Just wondering how that will cover.

      • Tasha says:

        I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Megan says:

      HI, I’m purchasing a new home and already prepping for the projects…kitchen is number one. What I am wondering is if this paint would work and hold up on a kitchen table. Mine is in desperate need of being refinished and I think I’d prefer a bright fun color over sanding and staining, and quite frankly this process sounds WAY easier :) What are your thoughts?

    • Rhonda says:

      What was the ‘cure’ time? How long from the final coat till you could put dishes back in the cabinets without it sticking?

    • Trish Turley says:

      HI. So we painted our cabinets a few years ago and they chipped like you said your laundry room did. Have you tried repainting them with this product and if so did you have to sand them down or did you paint over the chips?

    • Karen says:

      How many coats of paint did it take to cover the oak?

    • Virginia says:

      Did you use the water based or the polyurethane top coat?

    • Mary says:

      i did my laundry room cabinets after reading this
      they look great!!!!

    • Desi says:

      I am starting this project this weekend! How many coats of the seagull grey did you use? Sorry if I missed this information.

    • Murray Mayo says:

      Would this paint work on a wooden floor?

    • k_elizabeth says:

      i’m so happy i found your site! i love this post, its exactly what i’ve been searching for. our kitchen looks very similar to yours BEFORE your update. i’ve haaaaated my oak cabinets since we moved in, and its always been a “to-do” but i’ve never wanted to put up with the sanding and priming, blah blah blah. you’ve totally given me hope that i can do this! thank you so so much!

      question: can you see the grain of the wood through the paint at all? or did the paint completely cover it? just curious!

    • Judy says:

      What length cabinet handles did you use? Love the look!

      • Tasha says:

        They are varying lengths depending on the size of the door. I got them from IKEA. Thanks for reading!

    • Sarah says:

      Did you sand between eac top coat application like the paint says? I’m trying this now and it’s a lot of work! Do I really have to sand in between top coats?

    • Kathy says:

      I am doing this right now and feel disappointed with the results I am getting. After the first coat I was really happy with it, but now after the second coat has dried, I can see every brush stroke from the second coat. It isnt a nice smooth look at all. I am using foam rollers and a brush for the nooks and crannies where the roller cant reach, and it is also very obvious where I have used the brush. I’m not sure how to remedy this except to try a third coat. Did you have a problem with the second coat? I was hoping I would be on my way to the top coat by now! Also I am doing this on top of previously painted cabinets, but I used the deglosser and it is adhering just fine. I was hoping this would be as simple as you said it was, but now I feel like this is going to be a long stressful project. Any tips would be appreciated! Thank you!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Kathy! No, we did not have that issue. My guess is you are probably seeing brush marks from the previous painting, but it’s hard to say. I would recommend doing a QUICK third coat with a foam roller only. The nooks and crannies probably don’t need a third coat. If the brush strokes are from the current paint job, that should help. We only had to do two coats, but we didn’t have any issue with brush marks. Hope that helps!

    • Mo says:

      I love your cabinet transformation!! You have turned me on to this paint and my husband and I will be painting our cabinets soon. Question:
      Did you apply the top coat to the back of the cabinet doors too?

    • Kelley says:

      I used your tutorial to update our bathroom cabinets a couple months ago and it turned out amazing! Today I am starting the kitchen. I cannot wait to see it finished! Thanks for all the tips :)

    • Danielle says:

      I love what you did with the cabinets and plan on doing the same with mine!!! What is the color of the blue/gray wall behind the cabinets? Thanks!

    • Laura says:

      Looks great! Would this paint combination work well on a bathroom vanity? Given the moisture in the bathroom I was not sure.

    • Nancy says:

      Love the cabinets! What top coat did you use? There is High Performance and Waterbased and a High Performance Waterbased Polyurethane. Ready to get started thanks to your blog!

      • Tasha says:

        General Finishes high performance topcoat in flat finish (the water based version). Good luck and thanks for reading!

    • Darlene says:

      Love the new look and color.
      I have metal cabinets. What kind of paint would you recommend. No sanding and priming WOW.

      Could the info be sent to my e-mail as well as here. I don’t want to miss your response.

      • Tasha says:

        I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps! Good luck!

    • Julie says:

      So happy to have you join our team, Tasha! Your canniest look fab!! I painted over my hinges. Shame on me!! You did good!!! XO

    • Melinda says:

      We have a Keebler Elf kitchen, very small. There are 15 cabinet doors and 6 drawers in honey oak that makes the kitchen look even smaller. I love the color choices you made and I’m excited to try to duplicate your efforts! I do have one question, did you also paint the back of the doors?

      Melinda K.

      • Tasha says:

        We painted the whole door, but not the inside of the cabinet boxes. Thanks for reading and good luck!

    • […] everything else painted :)  And when I say everything, I mean it.  We painted the walls, doors, cabinets, backsplash.  We even painted and stenciled the floor!  You can read all about our budget […]

    • Melissa says:

      Hello! My husband and I are looking to redo our kitchen on a small budget. We saw your post and absolutely love the color that you used and the fact that we wouldn’t have to sand and prime, as we have 34 cabinets and 17 drawers! We were trying to find how we could obtain some samples before we bought a large amount of paint. In your post you stated that you contacted General Finishes directly. I checked their website and cannot find any contact information. Is there any chance that you might still have their contact information?
      Thank you so much for your time and your inspiration. We can only hope that our kitchen turns out as nice as yours!

      • Tasha A. says:

        General Finishes sent me pint size cans to try out—it’s just a perk of being a DIY blogger. The samples I referred to were just their pint size paints. You can order the same pint size cans on Amazon here: http://amzn.to/20sCPe8.

    • Melissa Slater says:

      Hello! My husband and I are looking at redoing our kitchen and came across your post. We absolutely love the color you used and the fact that I don’t have to spend the time to sand and prime as we have 34 cabinets and 17 drawers! I noticed in your blog that you said you contacted General Finishes directly. I have checked their website and cannot find any contact information so that we may obtain samples before we purchase a large amount of paint. Do you still happen to have their contact info?
      Thank you so much for your help and inspiration. We can only hope our kitchen turns out as nice as yours!

    • Wendy Larson says:

      I’m going to visit a local this next week to see the actual colors, but it looks by the website not too many to choose from. Keeping my fingers crossed that there’s one that goes with my color scheme of the house.

    • […] Designer Trapped in a Lawyer’s Body […]

    • Molly says:

      I need to do this. My cabinets are a similar tone, in my 1930 bungalow, the result of a late 60’s remodel. :/ The veneer is peeling in areas & there’s built up grease around the handles. (Barf.)
      My guy paints but has run into the issue of not letting latex paint dry long enough, feeling dry but once the doors are hung, they stick to the other painted surface & takes a piece off.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Molly! I used latex paint on the cabinets in our laundry room and even though I allowed plenty of drying time, they still chipped and peeled within the first week :( The combination of this milk paint and top coat is the way to go!

    • Crystal says:

      I have a question!! We are closing on our home within the next few weeks! The kitchen is our first project before we even move in! I love the idea of not having to sand!!! Just curious, would the milk paint look good on the cabinets that are already existing? I have always wanted grey cabinets with black hardware (which I found incredibly cheap and great quality on 99centknobs.com) to match the black appliances we have. The oven and venthood are GREEN right now, YIKES! I found a black high gloss, high heat appliance paint that I am going to use for them! What are your thoughts?

      • Tasha says:

        Sounds great! I used the milk paint on my existing cabinets. Good luck on your redo! Thanks for reading.

    • Bobbie says:

      Hi, I love love love your kitchen. These are the exact colors I am slowly redoing my kitchen in. But, I have a question. I originally was going to go with white cabinets and gray walls. Since you went with gray cabinets (which I am thinking of changing to now), what color did you paint your walls? I can’t really tell in the pictures if it is also a gray, or if its a blue-ish

      • Tasha says:

        It is a blue called Babbling Brook by Olympic and is sold at Lowes. Good luck and thanks for reading.

    • Jennifer says:

      Do you think the general finishes paint would be good for a wood dining set, without sanding?

      • Tasha says:

        Yes! I would still follow the same steps outlined in the post. Good luck and thanks for reading!

    • Rachelle says:

      Hi , just curious how was the top coat applied ? Roller ? brush ? Did you have any issues? I’m on the hunt for a good top coat ! Thanks!

      • Tasha says:

        As best I recall I used a regular bristle brush. I have not noticed brush marks, but there could be some. This top coat is amazing! I recommend it.

    • Barb says:

      Will this work on my bathroom vanity too?

    • […] doors and drawers, reattach hardware. It’s enough to make anyone crazy, but Tasha Agruso, a Designer Trapped in a Lawyer’s Body, has figured out “how to paint kitchen cabinets without losing your […]

    • Sarah says:

      What top coat finish did you choose? Satin? Semi-Gloss?

    • Mary says:

      I have cupboards that gave this cheap plastic looking overlay. Can this milk paint be used directly over this finish?

      • Tasha says:

        I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

      • Molly says:

        I’ve read/seen on home improvement shows & in magazines that as long as the laminate is sanded, like on wood composite book shelves for example, it can be painted over.
        Spray paint has solvents in it that help it adhere better but it’d need to be done outside as particles fly everywhere like dust.

    • casey says:

      Hi, was wondering if the milk paint was water or oil based?

      • Tasha says:

        It is water based acrylic paint. Please note this is very different from water based latex paint. Happy painting!

    • Adah says:

      Hello so I just received the milk paint to start this project but as I was reading the ins, it says it needs to be sanded? I have the seagull gray milk paint water based could I have gotten a different one than the one you mentioned? TIA…

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Adah! The instructions on the paint do say to sand it, but I didn’t sand at all. I DID use a liquid deglosser before painting, which serves the same purpose as sanding. I did not sand in between coats. You definitely have the correct paint! I hope that helps!

    • […]  That said, any high-quality chalk based paint or General Finishes milk paint should work well (you can read all about how we painted our kitchen cabinets with it with perfect results here).  I NEVER recommend painting furniture with latex paint (you can read more about why I […]

    • Jazmin says:

      Amazing!!!! I will be ordering the milk paints etc tmrw morning and am so looking forward to updating my cabinets. (Same color as yours) so dated!!! Can’t afford new ones and I have definitely been inspired by your project. Thanks so much for sharing. I look forward to this project and like you I will be doing it on weekends. I will post before and after pics on Pinterest. I’m ready for the journey! Amazing job. Thank you again.

    • Sandra says:

      Do I have to degrease the cabinets before I use milk paint. Were could I but this pain

    • Shawn says:

      I want to paint my Cabinets, but, the have already been painted……..about four time (before my time). Do you think that this milk paint will work for them? Do I need to sand them down first?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Shawn! I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Ada says:

      Hello I love the cabinets! I have a ? Do you think this will work on top of gel stain I stained my oak cabinets about 2 mths ago :-) thanks in advance.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Ada! I have never tried that, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Mary Ann Whitelym says:

      we are considering painting our oak cabinets, as they really an update and would like a very light gray. We have white appliances and don’t want to try and match, so thinking the light gray would be super. I love the finished look of your cabinets. Can you tell me why you choose the flat finish? does it have something to do with how the top coat looks? We are considering trying General Finishes milk paint. I’m not sure what the difference is between milk paint and regular latex.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Mary Ann! I chose a flat top coat because I don’t like a lot of sheen AND because a flat coat minimizes the grain showing through because less light catches on it. If you want a shiny top coat, you would want to pick the satin or gloss top coat. The difference in the milk paint is that it is a very high quality acrylic paint, which is MUCH more durable than latex paint. I painted my laundry room cabinets with latex paint and they chipped almost immediately. I hope that helps!

        • Mary Ann Whitely says:

          thank you for answering my questions. I did forget to ask if there is any nice sheen on your flat top coat? I do like a little sheen, also what do you use to wipe spills from the cabinets and/or for maintenance. I dislike really shiny finishes but a nice sheen would be great.

          Did the milk paint you used come in a particular sheen, if so what did you choose? I am excited to do this project, also very leery as this is going to be a very large project for us. Since I am the painter in the family most of the work will be done by me. than you, Mary Ann

          • Tasha A. says:

            Hi Mary Anne! We opted to use the flat finish top coat. It does add a tiny bit of sheen, but not much. If you want more of a sheen you could opt for the satin or semi-gloss top coat.

        • Mary Ann Whitely says:

          I forgot to ask a couple of things, I am wondering if your milk paint itself has a specific sheen or you don’t need to pick a sheen for the gray paint, it just comes one way. Also wondering what you use on the cabinets for cleaning spills, regular maintenance?

          • Tasha A. says:

            Hi Mary Ann. The milk paint only comes in one finish and it’s flat. I use Lysol wipes and/or cleaning spray (Mrs. Meyer’s) to clean the cabinets. I hope that helps!

    • Melissa says:

      Hi there, after seeing your blog 6 (or more)months ago and falling in love with your kitchen, I took the plunge and started painting my cabinets :) So far, all is going very well. Just wanted to ask, how did you apply the top coat? Foam brush and roller just like the paint? Thank you for your inspiration and follow up post about how the cabinets are holding up. My son’s bathroom is next and he is thrilled about the concrete countertop.

    • […] tackle this much bigger project using milk paint! What made me think of using milk paint, you ask? This blog post from Tasha over at Designer Trapped in a Lawyer’s Body is my inspiration. She used this […]

    • Elizabeth Campbell says:

      My cabinets currently have a textured finish. I can’t imagine that I wouldn’t need to sand them first. Will this be a problem?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Elizabeth! You will just have to paint a test patch and see. I’m not sure what you mean by textured. I can tell you that this is what General Finishes says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Linda says:

      These look great! Do you think it would work on fake wood?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Linda! I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Jackie says:

      This is a great post! I saw it on Pinterest. I have the same orangey ugly cabinets and have been going back and forth on painting vs gel stain. I will definitely contact this company and chat with them. I really appreciate you including the list of products you used, but mostly the update on how they have held up. That was also my biggest fear in painting mine.

    • Hayley says:

      Those cabinets look amazing! We bought our first home about a year ago and I have been putting off painting the kitchen cabinets because there are a zillion of them, but man oh man they are ugly. This might be the motivation I need to make it happen! How many coats of paint did you use before the top coat?

    • Josie Stoller says:

      Any idea if this would work for bathroom cabinets? Just thinking of the extra moisture…. thanks!

    • Diana says:

      Hi! Can I use this on my oak staircase?

    • Chasity says:

      I’m redoing my kitchen and love the outcome of your remodel! ! Can you tell me what color you used on the wall? I have already remodeled 2 bathrooms using the General Finishes and absolutely love it. Thank you for the pin

      • Tasha A. says:

        Thanks so much Chasity! The walls are Babbling Brook by Olympic, which is sold at Lowes. I hope that helps! And so happy to hear you love the General Finishes paint as much as I do!

    • saw your post through Kennary… This is coming at the perfect time for me because we’re closing on our first house on Friday, and I want to bring the dingy kitchen cabinets back from the ’70s before we move in. I’d love to not have to sand them. Thanks for sharing!

    • […] professional results with the least amount of work possible and that’s exactly what we got.  You can see our step-by-step tutorial on how to paint kitchen cabinets without sanding or priming he….  And if you are new to my blog, here’s a side-by-side comparison of what I am talking […]

    • Lori says:

      Whats the name of the darkest color on the right?

    • Mandy says:

      Where did you get those awesome hanging lights?!!

    • […] your diamond in the rough may need more love before you can begin painting. You can use paint deglosser or a primer to avoid […]

    • Kacey Baxter says:

      Ok, i saw this post several months ago and i still come back to it all the time! I think once it warms up a bit outside I am going to tackle this! I am curious to see or know how it has held up to everyday use! Any chips, or scratches on it yet!?!

    • […] How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets was our inspiration for painting our cabinets […]

    • Darlene says:

      Your kitchen looks amazing! One question – did you do only one coat of the milk paint before applying 3 coats of the top finish? If so, I would like to know if you see any of the oak grain? It doesn’t look like you do and if that’s so, this paint is truly amazing.

    • Yael says:

      Hello. Did you use: General Finishes Water Based High Performance Polyurethane Top Coat Flat Finish Quart or General Finishes QTHM High Performance Water Based Topcoat, 1 quart, Flat ?
      Thanks!

    • Lara says:

      I am wondering if you used the water based or the polyurethane top coat. And, what the benefits of each are? Thank you!

    • I just painted my laundry room cabinets with general finishes. It worked great. I am wondering if you sanded between the top coat paint coats. On the can t says to sand between layers. I loved your kitchen and info on how to do it.

    • Sherry Hohensee says:

      Can u use this paint in bathrooms & where can I buy it. Not on line

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Sherry! If you don’t want to order it online from Amazon, you’ll have to call around local woodworking shops to see if they carry it. Lowe’s and Home Depot do not carry it. I hope that helps!

    • […] need to sand and polish your cabinets before painting. Use a non-tacky paint to avoid pealing. One kitchen remodeler recommends Milk Paint by General Finishes, which doesn’t require sanding or […]

    • […] need to sand and polish your cabinets before painting. Use a non-tacky paint to avoid pealing. One kitchen remodeler recommends Milk Paint by General Finishes, which doesn’t require sanding or […]

    • Beverly says:

      Can you buy this paint at Lowes or Home Depot ?

    • Jo Anna Demeter says:

      I am so glad I found your page, I have been thinking of grey. We moved into our home a couple months ago, original owners from the 50’s. Vintage. The cupboards are in nice shape so to commit to painting is a hard choice. My husband has thought of leaving the cupboards and painting the framework. I haven’t found any good examples and not sure I like the idea. I love this paint. We just picked out a dining room set from Ikea that is antique white and grey. Definitely showing this to my husband. Love how you did it too, just thinking about starting a project like this makes me tired and we have a long list. Thanks so much for sharing.

    • KLG says:

      My husband seems to think that three quarts will not be enough for my kitchen … I have 32 average size cabinet doors and then 15 drawers. I have been wanting to paint my cabinets white for quite some time and your tutorial is very simple. Thoughts? This would be first time ever trying to DIY.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi KLG! It’s possible you will need more, but this paint goes a long way–much better coverage than latex paint. Good luck with your project!

    • Janice says:

      Tasha, are your walls grey too? It looks amazing! I have knotty alder cabinets, do you have any tips for filling the knots?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Janice! No, the walls are Babbling Brook by Olympic, which is a light aqua color. You could probably fill the knots with spackle–that’s what I would try!

    • Angela says:

      How well does this paint hide the oak grain? I have great cabinets with crown moldings but that ugly gold oak . I would love to try this in the summer when I’m off of work.

    • Jenn says:

      Hi! Great tutorial! Thanks! We’re gonna tackle some tests this week. I see you mention a top coat, but I didn’t see what kind of topcoat you used (or maybe it’s the Advil for this head cold that keeps me from reading all the words ;)

      Thanks!!
      Jenn

    • Stephanie says:

      I have a 1978 house. Our kitchen originally have the dark brown cabinets that were “the thing” of the 70’s. Somewhere along the way someone painted them white, but they didn’t do a good job. I’ve been researching ways to paint them and make them look good. I’m really excited to learn about the general finishes milk paints and gel stains. Do you think they would work on my cabinets that already have a pretty lousy coat of paint on them? Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Stephanie! You should be able to paint right over the old paint! This is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • MaryBeth says:

      Your kitchen transformation is beautiful. My boyfriend is hesitant about doing this without sanding or priming though. How long ago did you do this and have you see significant chipping/peeling?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi MaryBeth! The cabinets are holding up perfectly! We completed the project in April, 2014. I will actually be posting a specific post about how they are holding up, complete with a video, later this week!

    • Anita Kennedy says:

      Wow, I occasionally flip a house. I ONCE painted the cabinets. They chipped easily. I also have an antique booth and paint furniture. No brush strokes sounds great!!!! I use Annie Sloan paint so I already do not sand or prime. I intend to try this product soon because of your post. I’ve never heard of this product. Many thanks!

    • Sharonda says:

      After seeing this I can’t wait to try the milk paint and paint my kitchen cabinets! Thank you for the tutorial, your kitchen looks amazing!

    • Jan says:

      Thanks for the information. I have been wanting to redo my kitchen cabinets this looks like something I can do.

    • Anna says:

      Did the paint cover up the oak grain or did it show through?
      Thank you,
      Anna

    • Miranda says:

      How is the fumes on all the products you had to use? I have an 11 month old and it’s winter here in Maine….

    • Betsy says:

      Recently redid my kitchen cabinets and found I didn’t need to empty the drawers….the fronts of my drawers are just screwed onto the drawer boxes. Saved me the headache of emptying everything out and door fronts are easier to work with than the whole drawer. :)

    • Rose Stimson says:

      How many coats of paint did you use?

    • Krista says:

      Hi Tasha!
      Coming across your blog was like a Godsend! I recently took on the project of painting my kitchen cabinets–only a small section that was meant to be a focal point area (black), and it turned out to be a rather tedious ordeal. I did the traditional sanding, priming, ect…–and now, I realize that I’ve taken on more than I could chew–because the other cabinets will probably have to be painted as well! To make a long story a bit shorter (too late :-) I will be ordering the General Finishes Milk Paint to finish the project! I will also forgo sanding and use the deglosser, Can you tell me if you used only the foam roller for the face of the cabinets–or did you use a brush (other than in the nooks and crannies)? I cannot tell you how much of a pain the brush strokes were–I re-sanded a couple of times. Also, is the top coat applied by brush, and why did you use the flat versus satin? Thanks!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Aww, thank you Krista! We used a foam roller for all the flat surfaces and a brush to get in the nooks and crannies :) We applied the top coat with a regular paint brush. We chose the flat finish top coat to help minimize the light catching the grain so it’s less noticeable. I hope that helps!

    • Kayleen says:

      Hi Tasha,
      Thanks for the great information. I will be taking on our kitchen soon. I already ordered all of your recommended products. One question…if we don’t want grain to show through do you think we should use a primer after the deglosser? Thanks for your help. We are using the snow white on like oak cabinets.

      Thanks,
      Kayleen

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Kayleen! Unfortunately, I don’t think that a primer will prevent the grain from showing through. The grain is more of a texture issue. You would have to use spackle or drywall mud to make the cabinets totally smooth. That said, the flat finish I used helps to minimize the light catching the grain so it’s not as noticable. I hope that helps!

    • Nita says:

      Hi! You inspired me to do my kitchen! I started with the vanity….I’m having a little trouble (I see brush strokes until I get to the second / third coat). Also, did you sand in between the High Performance sealer after painting? Or did you just seal 3 times?

      Thank you!

    • Luis says:

      Would this work to paint over formica cabinets?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Luis! I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Jessica says:

      Thank you so much for the tutorial! How has the paint held up so far? I’m very concerned about durability with 3 small kids but I really want to try this!

      • Tasha says:

        You’r welcome Jessica. Appreciate it. We completed painting our cabinets in April, 2014 and they are still holding up perfectly!

    • MELAINE says:

      Your cabinets look great! How have they been holding up? I definitely want to look into using milk paint for my cabinets!

      • Tasha says:

        Thank you Melaine! We completed painting our cabinets in April, 2014 and they are still holding up perfectly!

    • Cody says:

      I’m curious, what type of cabinets do you have? Real wood? Or laminate particle board cabinets?

    • Sue says:

      How did you calculate how much paint to buy?

    • nikki says:

      What top coat do u prefer? General finishes satin or flat? The satin seems to be stronger when I read the info on it. But the flat is recommended for cabinets. Do you know the differences. I can’t figure out what would be best for kitchen cabinets and I have 3 kids 4 and under I really want it to last. Thank you!

      • Tasha A. says:

        I prefer the flat finish–that’s what we used. Our cabinets are holding up perfectly! We completed the project in April, 2014. I will actually be posting a specific post about how they are holding up, complete with a video, later this week!

    • Kristie says:

      You just saved me almost $4000! No lie. We have been working with two cabinet designers to create a new master bathroom vanity. I’m bagging both of those designs and refinishing the existing vanity with this milk paint, new hardware, etc. This was key! I tested it out today and loved the results, I’m so inspired to tackle a mess of projects around the house, armed with this milk paint. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

      • Tasha says:

        Wow! That’s great to hear Kristie. Hope you can upload a picture of your new master bathroom. I’m excited to see it :)

    • Nadine says:

      Nice love the makeover. I too did a huge kitchen paint job and new hardware that was going to coast 300. As I have 33 handles I found my hardware way cheaper than any where else at doorcorner.com for 130. Very nice site to work with. Then they refunded 50 due to a sale so my total was 80 bucks score.

      • Tasha says:

        Thank you Nadine. Great to hear that you found this blog post helpful in your kitchen’s makeover.

    • L.C. says:

      The instructions on the can say you should sand before you paint and between coats. Does using the deglosser replace these steps?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi LC. Yes, the deglosser serves the same purpose as sanding. We ONLY used it prior to painting–we did not use it between coats (we didn’t sand between coats either).

    • Betty says:

      What paint did you use for the back splash?

    • JenniferG says:

      Great job! I love how your kitchen turned out! How have your hinges held up? We are considering spray painting ours. Thank you for your time!

    • Sue Ruple says:

      How did you calculate how much paint and top coat you needed?

    • Sue Ruple says:

      I want to paint my bathroom cabinets. Do you think this paint would work on them also? They are oak and look similar to the ones in your kitchen.
      Sue

    • Holly says:

      Would the milk paint work on laminated cabinets also?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Holly! I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Kristi says:

      Our cabinets are already painted white but are dingy and chipping in areas. If we used milk paint to repaint them, should we sand them because they’re already painted? Yours look amazing!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Thank you Kristi! I would paint right over the existing paint! This is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Nicole says:

      We painted our cabinets about 6 years ago with regular high gloss latex paint. It looked good for a while, but is definitely showing wear around the hardware and where we handle them most. Just wondering if you can use the milk paint directly over the latex paint without sanding, or would we have to sand the old paint off?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Nicole! I would paint right over it! This is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Annie says:

      How did you get Genreal finishes to send you samples?

    • […] Paint kitchen cabinets not hard to do but you must first learn how to paint cabinets. […]

    • Sharisa says:

      How can I purchase samples? Also, with the seagull gray is it more on the white side or does it have a pretty gray tint to it? I’m on the fence between antique white, Snow White, and I love your seagull gray-this is why I would like to buy samples before I buy the quarts. I would like to do a white kitchen. I love the way yours turned out!! How has it held up to heat and normal wear?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Sharisa! The samples are just pint size cans, which you can purchase here: http://amzn.to/20sCPe8 The seagull gray is a light gray–definitely not white. The cabinets are holding up perfectly! We completed the project in April, 2014. I will actually be posting a specific post about how they are holding up, complete with a video, later this week!

    • BobG says:

      So my brother-in-law, who is a cabinet rep, says his concern is that the grain would show through the paint, which would be fine if painted a dark color, but my be a negative if painting a light color as you chose, and as I am considering.

      My question is, and there aren’t any pictures here that really show it (very close-up after pictures) does this milk paint lay on thickly and flatly enough that the wood grain is obliterated and the surface ends up flat?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Bob! The grain does show through. The paint is not thick enough to flatten the surface, but it still looks great in my opinion. Hope that helps!

      • Kristie says:

        I just did a trial run today using seagull gray ( the light gray in the photos)… I did two coats and there is a touch of wood grain showing through, but nothing noticeable in my opinion. Looks great!

    • Marcia says:

      Oh wow, your photos and tutorial actually made my husband say yes to painting our oak cabinets!! It looks like this is a recent post (I’m new to your blog), so how long ago did you paint them? My husband is worried about chipping, as most men are. Your home looks lovely. I also know a little bit about life with twins…never a dull moment, lol.

      • Tasha says:

        Hi Marcia, We completed painting our cabinets in April, 2014 and they are still holding up perfectly!

    • kristi says:

      My cabinets are currently painted white but aren’t in good shape and are chipping. I assume i’ll have to sand. What do you think – can milk paint be used over other paint?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Kristi! This is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Roxanna says:

      Can you use this on the laminate type wood? I am pretty sure the faces of my cabinets are t real wood.

      • Tasha A. says:

        I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Julie says:

      With other milk paint I tried, it came in powder, and had to be mixed with water. Is this the same with General and if so can you give me the ratio of water to powder.

      Thanks Julie

    • […] we decided to move, the one thing I knew I needed in our new house was white cabinets. I read about painting kitchen cabinets without sanding or priming with General Finishes Milk Paint and thought it perfect for what I […]

    • Megan says:

      Your kitchen looks great! I’m in the middle of doing the same thing, but started with chalk paint and was recommended to use poly urethane as the top coat. The poly is really difficult to get a smooth coverage and needs sanding between top coats. 2 questions: first, is your top coat the same as a poly and/or difficult to get smooth coverage?; second, since I’ve already used chalk paint of a different brand, do you think the top coat you used would be an option for me?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Megan! I do think the top coat I used would be an option for you over chalk paint. The General Finishes topcoat is a poly, but it is one of the most durable polys available to consumers, so it’s much better than most others.

    • Marie S says:

      Tasha your kitchen looks fantastic!! I also have oak cabinets in my kitchen that, after seeing your pictures, and reading your post, I am considering painting with milk paint. Who knew cabinet painting could be this easy or have such beautiful results. My cabinets are the same color oak as yours, however, a different style (recessed panels). My big question that’s making my pause on this project (ok, other than trying to convince my hubby that we should do this), is what about the grain?? Does the milk paint cover the grain, or can you still see the grain grove through the paint? It does not look like you can. Thanks for your help!

    • Sherry says:

      Where did you find this paint? Interested in doing some cabinets but the only places we have close to buy paint are Lowes and a Home Depot not far away.

      • Tasha Agruso says:

        Hi Sherry! You can order the paint from Amazon or you can check with some local woodworking stores–they sometimes carry it. Here is the link to find it on Amazon: http://amzn.to/1S5Dmn5 I hope that helps :)

      • Judy Lindquist says:

        You can order directly from General Finishes. I used the Gel Stain to refinish my kitchen cabinets. It is truly more than FANTASTIC! The milk paint is as easy as this.
        Use General Finishes, you won’t be disappointed.

    • […] General Finishes Milk Paint also works WONDERS on outdated kitchen cabinets.  We painted our kitchen cabinets using these same products and have not had any chipping or peeling as of January 21, 2016 {almost 2 years after we finished the project}!  You can learn all about how we painted our kitchen cabinets without priming OR sanding here.   […]

    • Tim says:

      Will Olympic one milk paint work the same? It can be purchased at lowes?

      • Tasha A. says:

        I don’t know, since I haven’t used it. But I can tell you that General Finishes is the ONLY milk paint I have found thus far that I would recommend for this project.

    • Tatiana says:

      Could you do this treatment to other high use wood surfaces? Kitchen table and chairs? Dressers?

    • Dawn says:

      The side of my end cabinets are a veneer. Can they also be painted?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Dawn! I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Nancy says:

      Did you need to wash cabinets free of any greasy accumulation ?

    • Jason Winchester says:

      How did you use the deglosser without the fumes impacting your children? I have a one year old and I am concerned about that.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Jason! We did most of the deglossing outside. For the cabinet boxes, we made sure to do it at night after they went to bed and were far away from the fumes :) The fumes were gone by morning. I hope that helps!

    • […] if your kitchen cabinets are outdated, be sure to check out my post about how to paint your kitchen cabinets without priming OR sanding {see below for a sneak […]

    • Kelly says:

      Did you sand I between the top coats?

    • Lisa hickey says:

      Can milk paint be used on Formica cabinets?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Lisa! I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Shirley says:

      Can one or two of you send a photo? We are painting over dark doors.

      Thank you

      Shirley

    • talie says:

      love the kitchen, looks great! where are those awesome pendant lights over the island from?

      thanks! chantal :)

    • Susan says:

      I have some paint chipping off of my cabinets and have been dreading/ putting off painting them for years. Do you think I will have to sand that down or can I go over it?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Susan! Without seeing your cabinets, it’s hard to say. But, my guess is that if you remove any loose paint, you shouldn’t have to sand off the paint that is still well-adhered. This is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Christina manriquez says:

      Love it gorgeous I’ve been looking for the right paint to do my cabinets to and I love how great you describe this paint but I have one down fall. I recently moved into my child hood home and a long time ago my mom and I stain them a dark brown so my question is will this paint cover the stain with out bleed through I have only found one paint that don’t so if you can help with my problem that would be great thanks

    • Gette says:

      Thank you! It will be doing mi e too!

    • Cris says:

      Well this paint work on cabinets that has about 5 layers of plyothune on them? Without sanding and priming?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Cris! I think it would, thought I haven’t tried it. This is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Amber says:

      Kitchen looks beautiful! Question about your black splash….did you redo or just repaint it?

    • Barb Hart says:

      The ends of my cabinets are laminate, along with the sides of my island. Will this work on that?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Barb! I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Jaimie says:

      We are getting ready to paint our cabinets . Did you sand in between each coat of the top sealer?

      Thanks in advance,
      Jaimie

    • Eleanor says:

      Your cabinets look great! Why did you choose the flat finish poly? Just curious.

    • Molly says:

      Hi there! Your post had me on a mission! How many cabinets did you paint all together? I’m looking at your pictures and thinking my kitchen is about 1/2 the project or more. I know you said you used 3 quarts on the cabinets so I’m trying to get a feel. I have 4 smaller squares (above the fridge), 6 longer cabinet doors, 3 drawers, and 4 medium cabinet doors. I’m thinking to buy one quart of seagull and one quart of whitish and mix them?

      Can’t wait to hear back! THANKS!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Thank you Molly! I don’t know exactly how many cabinets and drawers we have, but it sounds like you should be able to get the job done with two quarts. Good luck!

    • Allison says:

      Beautifully done! Have you found this method to be very durable? How long have you been using the newly painted cabinets and have you had any wear/chipping problems? Thank you!

      • Tasha A. says:

        The cabinets are holding up perfectly! We completed the project in April, 2014. I will actually be posting a specific post about how they are holding up, complete with a video, later this week!

    • daviseaj says:

      I LOVE IT! I’m going to go to the site for the paint now & look at doing my kitchen this spring. Just one update to consider adding your post: in case you’re not near an IKEA like we are, they do have shipping for all that that really cool hardware!

    • Carie says:

      I’m redoing our cabinets…but with Rustoleum Transformation kit…did you coat the inside of your cabinet doors with the top coat? I’m debating whether to do mine or not – I’ve painted them though.

      I’m also redoing our stair bannister and using General Finished Java Gel! Thanks!

    • Rachel says:

      Is there a way to get samples or color swatches? Having a hard time finding a contact number for the company.

      Thanks for the great post! Going to try this.

    • Amy D says:

      I had a “professional” paint my white cabinets, which are the pressed particle board type material, not oak like yours. He painted a base color, did a little glazing, and then slapped on, literally, pure polyurethane… and left drips and unpainted places all along the way with that last step. I have tons of nicks and dings on my cabinets, and could honestly cry every time I look at them – especially considering that we actually paid this man to do this. ANYHOO, do you know what the process would be for redoing these cabinets with the type paint you used? I think I’d def have to sand off this junk. Will that be a problem, do you think? I know I’ll have to wipe them down after sanding. I just have a LOT of cabinet doors, and my own set of twins plus one more, lol! Thankfully, my girls are in kindergarten this year and their brother is older, so maybe I stand a chance?! Hubs will not be helping, at all – NOT his thing… Thanks!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Amy! Oh no! That sounds like a nightmare! I bet you could just sand off the drips and then use this paint :) This is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Michelle says:

      Did you only have to do one coat of the milk paint? I painted my son’s dressers with the lamp black milk paint and it took 4 coats!! I’m wondering if I did something wrong.

    • Megan says:

      How are they holding up? Do they scratch easily or chip at all now? Do they wipe clean easily? Thanks in advance!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Megan! The cabinets are holding up perfectly! I will actually be posting a specific post about how they are holding up, complete with a video, later this week!

    • Stacie says:

      I was wondering how your cabinets have held up since you painted them.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Stacie! The cabinets are holding up perfectly! I will actually be posting a specific post about how they are holding up, complete with a video, later this week!

    • Debbie says:

      Do you know if the milk paint will act the same way over already painted cabinets?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Debbie! It should. This is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • […] if your kitchen cabinets are outdated, be sure to check out my post about how to paint your kitchen cabinets without priming OR sanding {see below for a sneak […]

    • Ruth Harvey says:

      I’m very interested in using general finishes milk paint on my cabinets and your blog post inspired me. How are your cabinets holding up after a year? Are you still happy with them?
      Also, I noticed you did no sanding at all. Other sites tell you to sand so I’m just wondering which way to go. My cabinets are about 13 yrs old and are kraftmaid so they’re pretty good quality. Any feedback from you would be appreciated!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Ruth! The cabinets are holding up perfectly! I will actually be posting a specific post about how they are holding up, complete with a video, later this week!

    • Jessica says:

      Hi Tasha,
      Since some time has passed since you painted your cabinets, I was wondering how the paint has held up? I am planning on painting my cabinets soon and they have a very similar oak color and finish that yours did. I would love to not have to worry about sanding and priming, but I get nervous when I see other tutorials tell you that it is absolutely necessary in order for the paint to be durable over time.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Jessica! The cabinets are holding up perfectly! I will actually be posting a specific post about how they are holding up, complete with a video, later this week!

    • Aaron C. Ols says:

      I’m just wondering if you left the inner parts of the cabinets the original wood or whatever finish they were. I was thinking about redoing our light colored wood cabinets in white, and that’s what I planned to do. Also, I was thinking about using fine line tape, the same width of my grout to mask it, then paint my tile, then use grout paint afterwards. Thoughts.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Aaron! We painted the inside of the doors, but not the inside of the cabinet boxes. I hope that helps! And GREAT idea about how to paint the grout lines.

    • […] if your kitchen cabinets are outdated, be sure to check out my post about how to paint your kitchen cabinets without priming OR sanding {see below for a sneak […]

    • Linda says:

      How long has paint been on cabinets? Holding up well? Great job..same color I am considering!

      • Hazel Fernando says:

        Hi Linda, We completed painting our cabinets in April, 2014 and they are still holding up perfectly!

    • roberta arney says:

      where can you purchase General Finishes Milk Paint?

    • amy crist says:

      Thinking of painting my cabinets i have been looking at different paints have you ever tried the chalk paint i think its pretty close to the milk paint but i haven’t tried either but seen both on cabinets wondering if you have what the difference was.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Amy! I do love chalk based paints for furniture. The milk paint is a high-quality acrylic paint and with the top coat is more durable than chalk paint with wax in my opinion. I hope that helps!

    • Nancy Meyer says:

      I noticed in the beginning, you tried three colors (in small sections) to determine the color you wanted. How did you cover that?

      I’m debating over the Snow White and Antique White but would love to test out the colors first.

      Thanks!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Nancy! We just went right over the sample patches with the final paint color. The coverage with this paint is outstanding! I hope that helps :)

    • kara says:

      Hi Tasha, I started my cupboards and it’s looking great but I too have the same question as above. I know you said a top coat that’s water based but I was wondering if you were aware there are two types of top coats? I wanted to be sure it was the the polyacrylic and not the polyurethane.

    • Emily says:

      did you paint the inside of your doors or just the part people can see when they are closed?

      thanks!
      emily

    • Courtney says:

      We are starting our cabinets today. I really hope it works as well for us as it did for you!

    • Merry Lu says:

      Do you think that this paint will adhere to laminated surfaces without having to sand or prime?

      • Tasha A. says:

        I haven’t tried it, but this is what General Finishes says about its Milk Paint, “”General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • rebecca says:

      DId you use a water base top cpat or polyurethane? thanks

    • Lori says:

      Absolutely beautiful! I’ve talked myself into painting my 1970’s oak cabinets, but my hubby isn’t on board yet…. Does your wood grain show through the paint? I hate oak and really don’t want it to show through.

    • Gina says:

      My cabinets need a make over but they are already painted with a spray gun. Do you think the milk paint would work on my cabinets.

      I also see makeovers on wood cabinets but not on ones that have already been sprayed.

      I was thinking of chalk paint until I saw you site on pinterest

      • Tasha A. says:

        This should work just fine over cabinets that have already been sprayed, Gina! This is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Lauren says:

      How has the paint held up since you painted? I’m getting ready to do my cabinets and interested to see is the top coat is durable enough.

    • Mayra says:

      What kind of brand and type of brush did you use? Ty

      • Tasha A. says:

        Oh gosh! I think it’s a Purdy brush with synthetic bristles. Sorry I can’t be more specific–we’ve had the brush forever and I can’t recall the exact details.

    • Alexandra R. says:

      First off, I would just like to thank you for this amazing tutorial! I’ve been for days reading bogs and tutorials on painting my kitchen cabinets and yours is by far the greatest…and easiest. This is my first home and have no experience what’s so ever on painting besides painting my bedroom a few years ago. I was pretty discouraged after reading over so many tutorials. Found the process to be so long, difficult, and time consuming. Your tutorial sounds to be made just for me! :) so my only question is…do you think I should take any other step besides cleaning and using deglosser if I have wood cabinets with dark red horrible paint on top? Previous owners seemed to have wanted to do the same as I will attempt to do on the cabinets..but, failed terribly. I know you mentioned in comments that it’s possible that it will need more then 2 coats but, should I take any other steps prior to cleaning and using deglosser? Alexandra

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Alexandra! Is the paint on your cabinets in pretty good shape (i.e., not peeling)? If so, I don’t think you need to do anything else before the deglosser. Here is what General Finishes says about it’s Milk Paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Hope says:

      We are currently updating our kitchen and I’ve run into a problem, our hinges are goldish but new knobs and pulls are brushed nickel. So my question is, how have the painted hinges held up? I’m tempted to try it but painting 40+ hinges to end in failure sounds defeating.
      Btw, your kitchen turned out beautiful!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Hope! Thank you :) Our painted hinges have held up well, but I will say that the original hinge colors were not drastically different than the painted color, so if there are little chips we may just not noticed them. I hope that makes sense!

    • Mary says:

      Will this paint work on knotty pine paneling? Thanks!

      • Tasha A. says:

        This paint would work WONDERFULLY on knotty pine paneling, Mary! I have painted some knotty pine paneling myself and wish I had known about this paint back then. It should provide beautiful coverage!

    • Shirley Ryan says:

      Can you tell me the difference between Milk Paint and Chalk paint? I’ve been reading up on the Chalk but then came across your article. Cabinets. look great. We are dyeing to paint ours. But so nervous. Once they are done, If they don’t come out. Will not have the money to replace them

      • Tasha A. says:

        General Finishes Milk Paint is a high quality acrylic paint. Chalk paint a water based paint that has calcium carbonate added to it. Both are very durable, but the General Finishes Milk Paint, since it is an acrylic paint, flows off a brush beautifully and has great “body.” It’s just the right amount of thickness to give good coverage without getting gloppy. I hope that helps!

    • Amy says:

      Hi,

      Your kitchen looks fab! I am starting my own project soon and was just wondering how your paint is holding up after a year?

      Thanks,

    • Jenny says:

      Hi! Did you use a roller when you applied the top coat? If so, was it a sponge type roller. Your kitchen is gorgeous! !

    • Erin says:

      What a great solution to a project I have been dreading but so badly want to do! I love the seagull gray and wondered if you know if I can sand some of the paint/edges of the cabinets once it is finished drying to give a distressed/aged look?

    • Christine Reynolds says:

      I have the light oak finish on my cabinets, used to be beautiful. A lot of purple primer plumbing liquid was spilled on my cabinets . Won’t come off!!!! Will this cover it??

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hmmmm, I honestly don’t know Christine. But if anything will cover it, this milk paint should do it! This is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Shiffy says:

      Hi, I’ve been getting ready to paint my kitchen cabinets,doing all the research and reading every tutorial I find……now I came across yours and I really think this is it!! I have a question, does the top coat have a yellow tinge? Because I want to paint the cabinets white and I don’t want it to be yellowish.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Shiffy! The top coat does not have a yellow tint over the gray colors that I used, except in a few spots where the top coat pooled a bit. I don’t know if there would be a bit of a tint over a pure white. You could test it on a piece of scrap wood first. Good luck!

    • Nancy W says:

      hi, I see it was about a year and a half ago that you did your cabinets. Are they still wearing well? Am wondering what the high gloss topcoat looks like up close, would you be willing to post a picture?

      • Tasha A. says:

        They are holding up beautifully, Nancy! I don’t know what the high gloss top coat looks like. I used the High Performance Top Coat in FLAT finish, which has just a tiny amount of sheen.

    • Dawn Richardson says:

      Hi Tasha! Thank you so much for sharing your project! I am excited now to get started on my cabinets. I was wondering, and I probably missed it …but how many coats of the milk paint did you use? I did see you said 3 of the top coat. Thanks so much. Dawn

    • Jenna Miranda says:

      Hello,

      Ordering some GF Milk paint to paint the cabinets in our first house and wondered if you did one, two or 3 coats on your cabinets?

    • Krystal says:

      Did you use the middle or right color on your island? Is the middle one called driftwood?

    • Kim from Minnesota says:

      Thank you for your detailed explanation of the process you used! My kitchen cabinets look EXACTLY like yours, so I knew you were the right person to listen to! I’m about 1/4 done with my kitchen (doing in sections), using Seagull Gray. I’m putting on the poly, 2 coats done, and am sitting here wondering if I made the right call with semi-gloss. I think you used Flat? I wanted my finish to be slightly shiny/scrubbable, but now I”m wondering if it isn’t a bit too shiny in certain lights. I believe I can stop here and switch over to satin for the final coat… Thoughts?

      Also, dumb question, do you sand your last coat? I’m guessing no, but wondered if the purpose behind sanding in between coats is not just to have a good application surface, but also to smooth things out like tiny bubbles?

      Thanks for your help!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Kim! I did use flat, which does have a tiny bit of sheen and is easy to wipe down. You should be able to add a flat top coat over what you have done to just change the sheen. No, I didn’t sand my last coat or in between coats. I hope that helps!

    • Meggan says:

      Hi! Looking to paint my pine cabinets and wondering about the durability and washability of the milk paint. How does it hold up to 3 year old with chocolate fingers?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Meggan! We have 4-year-old twins and ours are very easy to wipe off. The protective top coat makes them nice and smooth/easy to wipe. I hope that helps!

    • Jaja says:

      Hi. Just got a new home and painted cabinets with the gen fin queenstown gray. So far we have done first coat only and gad to order more paint from store in sacramento. I forgot to use the deglosser. I dont know how i misswd it hope it will still work. So far it looks good with just first coat but just missed some edges. U think missjng the deglosser will affect results??

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Jaja! It’s really hard to say if skipping the deglosser will affect the results long term. The deglosser definitely helps with adhesion. Sorry I can’t be more specific. Fingers crossed your results are as durable as mine!

    • lucy says:

      When using the Gerneral finish do you need to use the Zinsser deglosser before you paint and also where can you purchase this paint I’m from Canada.
      thanks
      Lucy

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Lucy! You can purchase the paint on Amazon–there is a link to it in my post. You do use the deglosser BEFORE you paint. I hope that helps!

    • Mike says:

      Hi Tash, almost done with painting the cabinets in my kitchen, quick question on the top did you use a foam applicator or did you just use a brush?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Mike! Congrats on being so close to finishing your cabinets! We used a bristle brush to apply the top coat. Be sure to apply thin, even coats. If you go to heavy and get drips, the drips will dry with a slight yellow tint to them, which would be noticeable on light colors. I hope that helps!

    • Megan says:

      WHAT COLOR DID YOU PAINT THE BIG DOOR THAT LOOKS REALLY DARK? ALSO WONDERING WHAT YOUR WALL COLOR IS? THANKS

    • Molly says:

      This is the best tutorial ever! I am so excited to do our cabinets now! A couple questions — how have the spray painted hinges held up? Genius idea! Also, seems like it’s been a while since you finished your kitchen…any thing you would do differently that we could benefit from now? THANK YOU!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Thanks so much, Molly! The spray painted hinges have held up GREAT, as have the cabinets. There’s not a thing I would do differently, other than I would have done it much sooner if I knew how easy it could be. I hope that helps!

    • Stacey says:

      Hi Tasha – love the blog and all the information about painting kitchen cabinets……I’m in the middle of my project. I was wondering if you sanded between coats of the Flat Top Coat?

    • pat perschall says:

      would love to paint our cabinets, have new counter tops and new flooring.I would have to hire the job out since I am 69 yrs young do you think I can sand down the cabinets! I think I would enjoy painting!!

    • Andrea says:

      To follow up on my comment from earlier…forgot to ask! How has the paint held up? I read another blog post about using milk paint on cabinets and hers chipped a lot. I’m hoping the paint won’t chip easily :) Thanks!

    • Andrea says:

      Hi! Thanks so much for posting this tutorial! Your cabinets turned out beautiful! I’m thinking about painting my cabinets as you’ve described with milk paint and I’m wondering how many quarts of the top coat you had to buy to get 3 coats applied? I have about the same amount of surface to paint as you (possibly a little less) from what I can tell in the pictures. Thank you! :)

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Andrea! Thank you :) We used about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. A little goes a long way! And our kitchen cabinets are holding up perfectly! I can’t get over how durable the combination of the milk paint and top coat is. I hope that helps–thanks so much for reading my blog!

    • Jackie says:

      i am re-using the hinges since new ones do not fit. They are brass and will paint them white to match the cupboards or silver/chrome. What brand did you find works the best for spray paint and what brand clear protective coat on the hinges? Has the paint chipped off the hinges or worn off on the moving hinge part? You are an inspiration. Your kitchen was transformed into a front cover beauty. Thank you for the posting. jackie

      • Tasha A. says:

        Thanks so much for your sweet comment, Jackie! I believe we used Rustoleum spray paint, followed by a Valspar clear topcoat. They are holding up well! Thank you for reading my blog!

    • hannah says:

      Hi there, my cabinet is originally yellow as your before picture showed, maybe a little bit lighter. Today when I tried to clean the kitchen, I used a new degreaser spray, and then something really bad happened, the paint of my cabinet just peeled off and it turned to very dark brown which I think it’s due to some chemical reaction, and as I can find out, the color was totally soaked into the wood thus there’s no way to wipe it off. So the only way now is to repaint it, just wonder, is it possible to paint a light color, as I said, light yellow, over the dark brown surface? Thanks so much.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Hannah! It’s absolutely possible, but it may require more than 2 coats. Sorry to hear about the weird chemical reaction–what a nightmare!

    • Stephanie says:

      Hi!

      I love your kitchen makeover! I noticed your post date of July 2014. How is the milk paint on the cabinets holding up? I used the Java Gel Stain in my bathroom, but am dreaming of a white kitchen and would love to use this paint if it is durable!

      Thanks,
      Stephanie

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Stephanie! Our kitchen cabinets are holding up perfectly! I can’t get over how durable the combination of the milk paint and top coat is. I hope that helps!

    • Maureen says:

      Hi Tasha,

      Just absolutely love you information on the milk paints. This is a questions about the deglosser. When you wipe over the cabinets is the goal to have no residue of the deglosser there? What kind of applicator do you use? Thanks so much.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Maureen! I used an old burp cloth to apply the deglosser. The deglosser won’t really change the appearance of the cabinets at all. I just wiped it on quickly and let it dry. No need to worry about wiping it off. I hope that helps.

    • Cristina says:

      I am going to take on my kitchen cabinets! I have a couple sides of the cabinets that are “fake wood” . It looks like a wood overlay (glossy) was places over composite wood. I am wondering if it will stick to that. What are your thoughts?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Cristina! I have never tried this paint on any sort of laminate or faux wood, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Pat says:

      Hi, I am in the process of redoing my cabinets and following your instructions. I do have a question regarding the deglosser. I have a stain on my existing cabinet doors and need to paint them, but have to degloss them first so not have the trouble of sanding. Does the deglosser strip the varnish/stain off in order to paint. I rubbed and rubbed my cabinets and they still look glossy. I don’t have the physical strength to continue rubbing to try and get all of the gloss off. Am I doing something wrong? I really want to again sanding. Please help!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Pat! No, the deglosser does not have to remove the existing finish/stain. Just gently rub each door down with the deglosser and it will work its magic even if the cabinets don’t look different. It shouldn’t take more than 30 seconds per door. I hope that helps! Are you using the milk paint?

        • Pat says:

          Yes I am using the milk paint and it is wonderful! Thank you so much for the
          advice and step by step instructions! Even thinking of redoing my bathroom
          sinks in the future using your concrete method! Love the blog!

          • Tasha A. says:

            Thanks so much for reading my blog, Pat! Would love to see photos of your kitchen once you are done!

            • Pat says:

              Sorry it took so long to send photos as I was extremely busy with other things. Unfortunately, I don’t know how to upload them on here for you to view my renovations. Any advice would be helpful! I really love how my kitchen turned out! Thank you again!

    • Karen says:

      I did this last Winter to our cabinets and they came out great. Love this paint.

    • Amber says:

      The seagull gray is too light and the driftwood is too dark for me! What would you do??

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hmmm, it sounds like you may have to find another brand of paint with a gray color that you love–just be careful because you may have durability issues with a different type/brand. OR you could try mixing the two grays to see if it makes a color that you like! I would probably try mixing my own. I hope that helps, Amber!

    • Cathy Lewis says:

      Does this work on cabinets that are not solid wood?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Cathy! I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

        • Bailey Bryant says:

          I too have “other” cabinets and wondering if this will work. Mine are Formica material. I can do some looking, but do you know if anyone has tried it on that material?? Thanks!

          • Tasha A. says:

            Hi Bailey! I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Kim says:

      Hi, your kitchen looks great! I have a question, if color wasn’t an option, would you use the java stain or the milk paint? I am a fan of the java stain and have done a small bathroom cabinet, which took 3 coats. I want to do my kitchen but now I’m wondering if I should use the milk paint instead?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Kim! I would go for milk paint. Overall, I think it’s easier to work with than the gel stain. That said, between the 2 coats of paint you will probably need and the protective top coat that goes on top of the milk paint, it is probably very comparable in terms of the amount of work, so just pick what look you love the most. I hope that helps!

    • Megan says:

      Hello Tasha,

      We are about to make an offer on a house we LOVE… but the kitchen cabinets are awful & outdated. However, they’re a much darker wood, not like the lighter orange-y color you previously had… Do you think the milk paint would work over a darker wood? I’m wanting to go with more of a white or off-white, so I’m nervous about painting such a light color over dark. But this is my deal-breaker… We don’t have the funds to gut the kitchen & all that really looks rough are the cabinets! I don’t want to go through the trouble of sanding & priming – call me lazy here, but there’s a LOT of cabinets!

      Whenever you have time, I’d really appreciate your advice! Thank you in advance!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Megan! I absolutely think the milk paint would work well on darker wood, it just may require 3 coats instead of 2, but the painting goes pretty quickly AND it dries really quickly, so don’t be afraid to go for it! I hope that helps and good luck!

    • Hill says:

      I went to the website and I can’t find where to get a sample sent to me so I can pick out my colors.
      No where around me sells this product n I want to use it on my project! Please help!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Hillary! My apologies for the confusion. The “samples” that General Finishes sent me were their pint sized paints. You can order pint sizes on Amazon here: http://amzn.to/1LsMain. There is no sample size smaller than that and as far as I know and General Finishes does not send them free of charge to the general public–I received them in connection with my blog post. I hope that helps and again, sorry for any confusion. I have updated the post to clarify!

    • Jillian says:

      Hi there! I am very interested in trying these milk paints. You said the company generously sent you samples so I visited the website but could not find a phone number. Did you call them or contact them in another way?

    • Danielle says:

      Want an off white color*
      I tried going on their site and it won’t give me an option to contact them. I’m ready to get started asap:) Super excited!

    • Danielle says:

      Hello,
      I love this post and how great your kitchen turned out:) How did you contact general finishes to get the samples? I don’t know if I would want antique white, seagull gray, or linen. I was an off white color. Thank you!!

    • Erin E says:

      Hey there,

      I love this! you said its very durable and even after a year its held up nicely. Would you recommend this same exact process to do wood rails on a staircase? I have the same white and oak look and all white would look so much better. People say sanding is also recommended because of the high gross the oak currently has; Id love to hear your thoughts on it after your experience.

      Thanks!

      -Erin E

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Erin! Are you thinking of painting the stairs that you actually walk on, or the railing? I think this would be a great process to use for either, but if you will be walking on it, you may need a different top coat–I would ask General Finishes. As for sanding, I did not find it necessary–the liquid deglosser worked well for us. I hope that helps!

    • Sandra says:

      Hi there!

      I’m wanting to paint cabinets that we made white, but I’m not sure if I want to lose the grain on the wood! Does the milk paint cover everything, or can you still see the wood texture through it? Do you have a closeup of how the paint looks?

      Thanks!

    • Maribel Hannigan says:

      I’m so glad I stumbled upon your post. I’m glad to hear that your cabinets are holding up well. I was leaning toward the route of using chalk paint, but the two grays that are available are either too light or too dark. The milk paint color Driftwood seems perfect. My question is, did you clean your cabinets in any way before painting them? I’m referring to the grease build up around the stove area, etc. Thanks.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Maribel! Yes, I cleaned them quickly by wiping them down with Lysol wipes. Ours did not require a ton of cleaning. If you have a lot of build up, I would recommend wiping them down with Simple Green or TSP first. I hope that helps!

    • Katie says:

      This is WONDERFUL!!! May I have an update? Wondering how it’s holding up as of now….I’m trying to decide whether or not to sand first. Thank you!!

    • Caitlyn D. says:

      Hi!
      Long story short I decided to go with chalk paint for my kitchen cabinets and its starting to crack and yellow. Yes, please insert crying here. Luckily I have not waxed yet and I’m seriously debating stripping to use general finishes milk paint. From your experience, would you say the milk paint would be worth that work? Are there really no brush strokes?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Caitlyn! We really have no brush marks–it’s amazing. We used a foam roller and a regular brush for the application of the paint, which helped, but also this paint just spreads like a dream. I’m not even positive you would need to strip the chalk paint first. I would call General Finishes and ask–you may be able to paint right over it!

    • Suzie T says:

      I really enjoyed your post and was so inspired by it that I started my own kitchen cabinet repainting project, however, I’m using the poly sealer and there’s brush marks. I’m really bummed about it and can’t find a way to alleviate them. Do you have them too? If not, what did you do to correct them?

      Thanks!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Suzie! I didn’t have brush marks, but I believe I used a foam brush to apply the General Finishes High Performance Top Coat. I also use the flat finish, which helps minimize seeing brush marks. Is that what you are using?

    • Linda says:

      Hi there – did you sand between top coats as it instructs on the General Finish top coat can? I used the same paint and top coat as you. Thanks!

    • DeAnna says:

      Did you paint both sides of your cabinet doors?

    • ERIN DELAUNAY says:

      Hi,
      I see this blog is a little over a year old.
      How is the paint cabinets holding up?

      Thank you!

      This blog may have just saved a LOT of time and aggravation :)

    • Sarah says:

      Hi, Tasha! Can you tell me about the undertones of the three gray colors? I read on Pinterest that the Driftwood is a blue gray — I’m looking for a gray gray! Unfortunately, the store in my area that carries General Finishes only stocks the stains and poly, not the milk paints.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Sarah! I would agree that driftwood has a slight blue undertone. The seagull gray is a “gray gray,” but it is much lighter. The darkest gray (the name escapes me at the moment) is a dark, charcoal gray. I hope that helps!

        • Sarah says:

          Thank you so much! I have decided to use the darkest (Queenstown) on my lowers and island, and the Seagull on the uppers. I can hardly wait to get started!

          • Tasha A. says:

            You are going to love this paint, Sarah! I would love to see photos when you are all done. Please email them to me: tasha{at}designertrapped.com. Thanks!

    • Seth says:

      So, tried everything here….
      TSP took off more of the gloss than the deglosser did. It did nothing.
      Milk paint has more brush strokes than regular paint. I’m sorry, but nothing you wrote worked at all. Nothing. I deglossed 4 times, and everything was still glossy. Working with 1970s oak cabinets. Said screw it and tried milk paint. It was terrible. so many brush strokes I need to sand it all off.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Sorry to hear it, Seth! You are the first person I have heard to have any problems. Here is what General Finishes says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” It sounds like there is something about your particular cabinets that are preventing adhesion {assuming you purchased the General Finishes milk paint and not some other brand. It worked brilliantly on our cabinets and many other readers have had the same luck as me, sending me photos of their finished projects. I am sorry to hear it didn’t work for you!

    • Pam says:

      I’m just starting to do my cabinets with this process. How hard do you scrub with the deglosser? I’m finding I’m scrubbing super hard to get it off and can’t tell if I missed a spot until it dries. How important is it to get all of the old stain off before painting?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Pam! I didn’t scrub at all with the deglosser. Just wiped it on with a light touch. The goal is not to get the old stain off. The deglosser just “roughs” the surface up a bit to help with adhesion. I could not visually tell that I had used the deglosser after I was done (in other words, the cabinets looked the same as they did before I used the deglosser). I hope that helps!

    • Chloe says:

      Hi!

      I LOVE you cabinets and have found somewhere local who sells GFMP so I will be giving this a go! Quick question, what is the difference between GFMP and using a chalk paint?

    • Ashton says:

      Hi! So excited to get Started And give this a try! How much Of the restoleum deglosser did you have to use And do you have any tips or Instructions on how to Use to achieve your results? Thank You for any help, and for this post.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Ashton! I used less than one container of the deglosser for the project. I just wiped it on with light pressure. It took very little time to do all the cabinets. I hope that helps!

    • Becky says:

      Hi. Love your kitchen cabinet transformation! I was wondering, how long has it been since you done them, and are they still holding up well? I would love to paint my pine kitchen cabinets. I also just bought a dining table and chairs that is in desperate need of refinishing. I’m wondering if this same process with the milk paint would be good for that?? Because honestly, I’m too lazy for all that sanding and priming!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Becky! They are still holding up PERFECTLY. I am so, so happy with them! And I wouldn’t hesitate to paint a table with the milk paint. Just be sure to use the top coat on the cabinets and your table and you should be good!

    • Melissa says:

      They turned out beautiful! We used the Rustoleum cabinet transformation and sadly it is not holding up very well and it was a lot of work. This sounds so much easier. However,my question is how well do you think a light milk paint will go over a very dark cabinet? I think we used espresso and you can see that honey oak starting to come through in the high traffic areas. Not so happy about that. Anyway, any ideas? Would love your thoughts based on your experience!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Melissa! The milk paint has phenomenal coverage and I can’t imagine that the coverage will be affected with the passage of time (as it sounds like that is what happened with the Rustoleum product). We had to use two coats of the light gray. You have to do 3 coats on darker cabinets, but the milk paint goes on quickly AND dries quickly, so it would be very doable. I hope that helps!

    • Dawn says:

      What color are your kitchen walls painted?

    • Shelley says:

      Which finish did you use in the top coat; flat, satin, or high gloss?

    • Jenn says:

      Question. I used latex paint on my cabinets years ago. It’s chipping and it horrendous. If I use this paint do you suggest, cleaning, sanding, priming and then using the recommended type of paint?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Jenn! I don’t know that all that prep is necessary. This is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Angie says:

      What about the tile backsplash? Did you paint that as well?

    • Michelle Aiello Puckett says:

      Thanks for this great article! Will this work on laminate cabinets? I am itching to give my 80s/90s kitchen an overhaul.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Michelle! I don’t know that I would recommend using this paint on countertops. Sorry!

        • Michelle Aiello Puckett says:

          Oh, I was asking about laminate cabinets, not countertops. But thanks anyway.

          • Tasha A. says:

            Oh, in that case, Michelle, the answer is YES, you can use this milk paint over laminate cabinets. Sorry for the confusion on my part. This is what General Finishes says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Marie-Hélène Jean says:

      Hi, I from Québec in Canada. I like your production. How its possible to have it in Québec? The compagny offer her product in ôther country ?

    • Jill says:

      You kitchen looks so great! I’m looking for a solution for my cabinets and this might be my answer so I’m super grateful for your detailed, informative post! Yay! My cabinets are custom shaker style with a bead board inset. They are about 7 years old, installed by the previous owner of our home. They are a natural maple stain and we are hoping to update the kitchen to white/gray cabinets and counters to contrast more with the honey-toned wood floors.

      My question: I see your cabinets have grooves…mine have LOTS of grooves because of the bead board. How did it work brushing the paint on and into the grooves?

      Thanks!

      Jill

    • Mike says:

      Tasha do you think if we use primer before General Finishes paint it will hide the wood grain better?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Mike! Unfortunately, I don’t think so. It’s not the color of the grain that shows through, but the texture and I don’t think additional layers of paint/primer will help that. I hope that helps!

    • Pat says:

      i am thinking of redoing my kitchen cabinets and love your blog and information. I have a question on the amounts of paint. How do you determine how much paint to purchase?

      • Tasha A. says:

        I don’t know exactly how to calculate it, Pat. We kind of had to guess, lol! I believe we used 2 or 3 quarts of the light grey and 2 pints of the dark gray and about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. I hope that helps!

    • Kristen says:

      This is a great tutorial! We have gone back and forth a lot on what to do with our kitchen cabinets. We used the Java Stain dark espresso color to change the color of a bathroom vanity and it was a lot of work; glad I tested it on a small bathroom cabinet because there is no way I would want to attempt that process with our entire kitchen. I have also watched the tutorial video on Rust Oleum’s Cabinet Transformations, and just don’t seem up to that process either.
      Our cabinets are a higher quality wood than yours so I would hope that the deglosser would take care of the prep work. Trying a small area would be the only way to know!
      Thanks again, this is definitely the direction we are considering going!

    • I will most definitely remember this the next time I paint cabinets!! I most definitely lost my dag mind the last time I painted. ;)

    • DIY April says:

      Looks great. I just hired an auto body shop to paint a retro fridge and add an old car emblem. They think I’m nuts. Anxious about the results.

    • Ashley says:

      This gives me hope for our dated kitchen cabinets! I just wanted to make sure that I read this right…. NO sanding in this whole project? Not even between coats of paint and top coat? Did you apply the top coat in the same way (roller for the bulk with a sponge brush for the details?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Ashley! Nope, we didn’t sand a thing! We used a foam brush to apply the entire top coat. We did not use a roller for it. I hope that helps!

    • Hi there! I’m one of the bloggers who wrote a tutorial about the java stain (which is amazeballs!), but I am really wanting white or gray kitchen cabinets. I have a random question for you- does seeing the wood grain bother you? From your test swatch it’s evident it doesn’t cover the grain, and I just wondered your thoughts about it. Thanks! :)

      -Monica
      http://www.monicawantsit.com

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Monica! Seeing the wood grain doesn’t bother me at all. I only notice it when the light hits it a certain way. I think that using the flat top coat minimizes drawing attention to the wood grain. I hope that helps!!!!

    • I am thrilled to have all of this information- thank you for sharing the name of the paint, your tutorial, and the inspiring before and after photos! :D

    • Susan says:

      Of all the sites I perused over the months I keep coming back to your kitchen make-over for ideas. Could you tell me what brand and color of paint you used for your walls? Thanks!

    • Aline says:

      Great work! I see you used a Flat top coat. Did that still left a lightly sheer in your cabinets or are they completely matte? I can’t tell by the pictures

    • Gwen says:

      I cannot THANK, THANK, THANK YOU enough for this post!! I am following all of your guidance and so far, the awful orange wood 80s cabinets (in a newly purchased home) are transforming before my eyes! The only thing I did differently was use TSP to clean the cabinets before the deglosser because they were dreadfully filthy. The milk paint is amazing, although so far I am having to do 4-5 coats to get good coverage, but it dries so quickly it is moving quickly. Thank you again, Tasha, for your insight and for sharing all of your amazing projects! You are an inspiration!

    • Debbie Chaney says:

      Wonderful job….Could this paint be put over cabinets coated with verathan varnish years ago? Where is it available? Thank you!!!!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Debbie! I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Renee says:

      I contacted the company and they recommend a lite sanding. Did you use the deglosser in place of this? Also, are they still withholding at this point in time?

    • Amanda says:

      How are the cabinets holding up with the paint? Any chipping?

    • Kathy says:

      It’s been over a year now since this project – just wondering about the longevity of the paint and it’s durability? Also wondering where you were able to purchase the samples?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Kathy! The cabinets are holding up perfectly! I was sent the pint samples directly from General Finishes (it’s a perk of being a DIY blogger). I do not know if you can purchase them directly or not.

    • Marci says:

      i have super cheap builder grade cabinets. Will this paint work and howuch is this and where can I get some colors.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Marci! You can purchase the paint at some woodworking supply stores, or you can order it on Amazon (you can check them out here: http://amzn.to/1T2EZgG). In terms of adhesion, this is what General Finishes says about its milk paints: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Erika says:

      Awesome blog! So happy I came across this! My question to you is do you think it’s absolutely necessary to use a deglosser?

    • Erika says:

      Awesome blog! I am so excited that I came across this! My question to you is do you think it’s absolutely necessary to use a deglosser?

    • MrsJo says:

      I am in LOVE with this kitchen! We are thinking of doing the Driftwood color. In the picture it looks a little blue (it seems gray tends to do that), is this just a trick of the light? About how big is your kitchen? How did you decide how much paint to buy? Thanks for the post! The hubs and I are so excited to try this!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Mrs. Jo! The Driftwood is a cool gray, as opposed to a warm gray, so yes, it does have a hint of blue undertones. Our kitchen is about 20 x 13. We used 3 quarts of the Seagull Gray, 1 pint of the Driftwood and about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. I hope that helps!

    • Mahtab says:

      Such a beautiful remodel! I want to ask–did you paint your backsplash or did you completely change it?
      Thanks!

    • Y lu says:

      OMG we have the same exact cabinets. We are thinking of redoing the kitchen but didn’t really want to get rid of the cabinets because they are sturdy and withstand anything. They just look out dated. I also was thinking about grey cabinets. Yours look fantastic. thank you for your post. There is hope for our cabinets.

    • Carlette says:

      Did you paint the backsplash as well?

    • Liz Willoughby says:

      Such an inspirational blog–thank you for sharing your makeover! I’m knee deep in this project…did you sand between your polyurethane coats? Thanks again!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Liz! Thank you! No, we did not sand between coats of the General Finishes High Performance Top Coat, which is a polyacrylic, not a polyurethane. Is that what you are using?

        • Liz Willoughby says:

          Oh yes…that’s what I’m using. Thanks again! I deglossed and sanded my cabinets which are orange oak as well…I’m getting some bleeding through the paint but only in a very few spots. Did you experience that as well?

          • Tasha A. says:

            I did not get any bleeding. I used two coats of the paint. Is that what you did?

            • Liz Willoughby says:

              Three coats…but I went with the Snow White. Methinks the darker color is more forgiving. The third coat was a charm. :)

      • Deidre says:

        I’m in the process of using Snow White as well. My test door needed three coats and a sanding between. I’m thinking it was bc the door was from above the microwave and I didn’t get it clean enough. The paint was bumpy. Hoping I don’t need to do that on all the white!

    • Dan Montgomery says:

      Tasha, as a very handy guy around the house, I should know all these things that you have here on this site… but… a huge thanks for giving my wife and I the solution to our cabinet woes. I had thought that I would have to have them professionally painted, but this is a solution I love because we can do it ourselves. We start our project as soon as we decide on a color. Thanks! (I was tempted to use an alias since not many guys post here… but… )

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Dan! SO HAPPY TO HAVE A MAN reading my blog–you are right, there are a quiet minority around here :) Good luck with your project!

    • Kathy Jo says:

      Tasha,
      Just found your blog and really enjoyed seeing your new kitchen. Funny story – I have your exact cabinets, down to the exact hinges (which I also spray painted brushed nickel!), and I painted over them 12 years ago when we bought our house and redid it room by room. HOWEVER, I did not have the great experience you did! I used 4, yes, 4, coats of gloss white enamel, after 2 coats of KILZ primer, and it took forever and never looked professional. Even with foam brushes (which I used) there were/are brush marks, although no one but me has ever seemed to see them. Now I am ready to either replace them or redo them and thank goodness found your amazing results, so I can make a choice based on something other than the fact that I would NEVER, EVER, EVER spend that kind of time of cabinets again ;)!!
      One question – can you use the milk paint over existing paint without sanding and priming?
      The entire kitchen, floor to ceiling, looks amazing and thanks for taking the time to share everything with us!

      • Tasha A. says:

        No way, Kathy Jo! I had no idea these cabinets existed elsewhere–small world! According to General Finishes,”General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Lauren says:

      Hey there! I am currently redoing my kitchen cabinets by painting them gray. I already sanded down all of the doors and drawers and was going to use a regular paint and didn’t see this blog until now . I will now be using the milk paint but do I need to do any other steps since i sanded the cabinets down already? I saw you said no sanding. Thanks in advance!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Lauren! Nope, nothing else you will need to do. In fact, you will be able to SKIP the liquid deglossing step since you have already sanded! Good luck!

    • Sandi says:

      I want to put new cabinets in my kitchen and rather than pay special pricing to get a unique color I’m considering buying unfinished cabinets and painting them myself but have been told the paint doesn’t hold up as well as factory coloring. Do you think the products mentioned about would stand up well on new cabinets?
      Thanks!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Sandi! I can’t think of any reason that these products wouldn’t stand up well on new cabinets. Ours have been painted for over a year now and are holding up perfectly!

    • Melissa says:

      I love this idea and think I might just be brave enough to try it! Question- did the grain from the wood show through the paint?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Melissa! Yes, the grain does show through the paint somewhat, but it is minimized by using a flat top coat. I hope that helps!

    • debbie says:

      I’m so glad I found your blog today. I’m a little less scared to try to paint my cabinets! Just wondering…did you paint both sides of the doors?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Debbie! Yes, we did paint both sides of the doors. Good luck!

        • 757 says:

          I finally just started today. After all the prep work, I only painted a couple of test areas. Hopefully, it will go quickly from here! I’m using the Snow White and I’m worried about brush strokes and so much of the wood grain showing through. I’m trying to use the foam roller as much as possible. I did read in one of the other comments that they applied 3 coats of the white paint. Fingers crossed.

          Just curious about the top coat…did you apply it with a foam brush?

    • leah says:

      Hi, I was wondering what flooring you went with, I really like the pattern!

    • Keri says:

      Hey!

      I love your cabinets! I purchased everything you said and began my project today. I had a question regarding the paint deglosser though. How much did you use? Did you just wipe the cabinets down, or scrub? How much work needs to go into that process?

      Thank you so much!

      Keri

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Keri! I didn’t put much work at all in the deglossing process. Maybe 10 seconds per door–I just wiped them down. I hope that helps!

    • Laurel says:

      Hi Tasha,

      Your cabinets look great! I see that this post is over a year old now. I’m just wondering how they are holding up with time? Have you needed to do any touch ups?

      Also, I don’t have a big outdoor space to do my painting in, so it will have to indoors for me. Were the fumes particularly bad?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Laurel! They are holding up PERFECTLY. There is one spot where I take my huge coffee can out every morning and have banged the edge of the cabinet a million times that I need to touch up a tiny spot, but that’s it. I am AMAZED. The fumes aren’t bad at all, actually. I hope that helps.

    • Lauren says:

      Hello Tasha,

      Great post and I am very interested in using the same technique for my kitchen cabinets. I would like to request a sample, as you did, from General Finishes. How did you go about requesting a sample? I can only find a fax number and the contact form clearly says it is NOT for sample request.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Lauren! Obtaining a sample was a perk of being a blogger. I don’t know that they are able to offer samples to everyone. If you can find a store that sells it, the store should be able to give you a sample.

    • Shelly says:

      Thank you for this post, this paint has transformed my kitchen! I love the fact that it keeps the grain – it is fantastic especially as it dries so quickly and I would agree with others that at least 2 coats are needed but so worth it. If only I could paint the worktop with it rather than having to replace it.

    • […] Hopefully you have already checked out Part 1 of the reveal and learned how we approached our budget kitchen makeover {short version is we pretty much painted EVERYTHING, including our kitchen cabinets without sanding or priming}. […]

    • […] Now, before you get to enjoy more photos, let me tell you that 90% of our budget kitchen remodel was accomplished by simply PAINTING nearly every surface!  We painted the tile backsplash, the walls, the trim and doors, and of course, the cabinets.  You can check out all the details on how we painted our kitchen cabinets without sanding or priming …. […]

    • Chris says:

      I prepped my cabinet doors as you instructed and threw the first coat on with a brush. I painted with smooth technique, but still have brush marks. The instructions on the can say to use a foam brush and/or roller. Will that help with the brush marks, or will the marks be minimized once the second coat goes on?
      Thanks, your project results are awesome!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Thanks, Chris! We had to use a brush to get into the grooves of our cabinet doors, but we used a foam roller for the smooth panels and all the cabinet boxes and don’t have any brush strokes at all. The second coat will make a big difference, but I would recommend a foam roller to apply as much paint as you can. I hope that helps!

    • Annie says:

      Hi Tasha,
      After reading your blog, I purchased General Finishes Milk Paint in Linen (LOVE the color) and just painted the back side of the upper and lower cabinets facing the family room to see if I’d like it on the faces of the cabinets. The first coat looked not so great, but by coats two and three (I probably could have stopped at two), they looked amazing! Just the look I was going for. I want to do my entire kitchen now.

      I’ve a question, first: Did you use the flat finish top coat, as shown in the photo, or a satin? I already bought satin, but I think I’d like the look of flat better. Please let me know what you used. Thanks. (Great blog, by the way. Your kids are way cute, too!)

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Annie! Thank you so much! So happy to hear that your cabinets turned out well! I used the flat top coat. I hope that helps!

    • Susan Watson says:

      Hi Tasha,

      Do you know if this will work on laminate cabinets?

      Thanks,
      Sue

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Susan! I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Tasha – they look ah-may-zing! Really great job! I have a question, though. What if the cabinets are already painted with oil paint? Can you still use this paint over oil paint without sanding or priming? Thanks!!

    • Cat says:

      First sane and reasonable approach to painting cabinets I have read for a “non-professional” DIY. We are also trying to cover yellowish orange oak cabinets until we can afford to gut the kitchen. AND not paint them white but a gray. Perfect post for me. Think I have found my approach. Thanks!

    • Gloria H. says:

      You are a woman after my own heart!! I’ve been dying to tackle my bathroom counter (or tear it out$$$), but now you’ve inspired me to use the concrete! And maybe I’ll even paint my kitchen cabinets too! Bravo!

      Btw, I bought an old wooden French bed and milk painted it with Annie Slone milk paint. Then I got a filthy old table that was in my garage and painted it to match the bed, and they’re fantastic! Sanded a few areas to make them look older, and added some tiny gold lines here and there to make them look antique(r) than they are. Milk paint is marvelous!

    • Abigail says:

      Hi! I plan on painting my cabinets this summer using the General Finishes Milk Paint you have suggested. I was thinking about using the same colors you did. How dark is the Seagull Grey? Is it more of a white or more of a light grey? Thanks so much!

    • Tracy says:

      Cabinets look awesome. Can you see the grain marks since they are oak cabinets??

      • Tasha A. says:

        Thanks, Tracy! Yes, you can see the grain marks.

        • Abigail says:

          Hi! I plan on painting my cabinets this summer with the General Finishes Milk paint. I was thinking about using the same colors that you did. How dark is the Seagull Grey? Would you say it is more white or more of a light gray? Thanks so much!

    • […] I love the pop of color this adds to our eat-in-kitchen area, which we recently completed as part of renovating our entire kitchen for less than $700!  It includes that gorgeous herringbone plank wall that you can see behind our kitchen table.  Oh, and you can learn all about how to paint your kitchen cabinets WITHOUT LOSING YOUR MIND. […]

    • Julie says:

      Almost a year later…..how are your painted cabinets holding up? I am considering painting our kitchen and bathroom cabinets with GFMP. I’d love an update on your redo’s durability!

      Thanks!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Julie! It’s been over a year since we painted the cabinets, and they are holding up PERFECTLY! I am amazed by GF milk paint. So, so happy I used it!

    • Melissa says:

      I want to try this paint on a small vanity. There are puppy scratches on one of the doors of the vanity. I see you say to not sand but I obviously have to to work out the scratches. What do you suggest I do?

    • Sara says:

      Hello,
      I am wondering if you let the cabinets cure at all before rehanging the doors? Or did you just let them dry?
      Thanks,
      Sara

    • Sara Alishouse says:

      Hi, Me again!
      How long did you wait before re-attaching the doors? Did you let the paint cure for a while or just dry?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Sara! I don’t recall exactly, but I think we just let the last top coat dry overnight before rehanging the doors. I hope that helps!

    • Angela Smith says:

      I’m sorry if you already answered this, but I didn’t see it. Can you tell me how much paint you needed for the entire kitchen? We’re buying a house and I’m planning to paint the cabinets and trim. The kitchen looks about the same size as yours. I’m so glad I stumbled upon your post! Thank you!

      Angie

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Angie! Thank you! I believe we used 3 quarts of the Seagull gray and 2 pints of the Driftwood. We also used about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. This paint gives excellent coverage and goes a long way. I hope that helps!

    • Jenna says:

      Hi. I have two questions:
      1. When you painted the cabinet frames with all of your items still inside, did the paint splatter? Did you tape or seal anything off?
      2. Does the paint come in a low/no VOC variety? I don’t want my family breathing in paint fumes (it can linger for so long!) months after the project is complete.

      Thanks so much. I’m hopeful I can transform my space the way you have.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Jenna!
        1) This paint is very, very thick. We didn’t have any problems with spattering and didn’t tape or seal anything off.
        2) I do not know about the VOC content, but I found this paint had fewer fumes than regular latex paint.

        I hope that helps!

    • Victoria says:

      Thanks for this great tutorial! I am officially over my cabinetry depression (been suffering that for years, every time I walk in my kitchen and see the oak cabinets that I’m too busy to sand). Questions: how many quarts of paint did you use for this project? Have you found a source that sells gallons? Thanks!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Victoria! You are welcome :) I believe we used 3 quarts of the Seagull gray and 2 pints of the Driftwood. We also used about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. This paint gives excellent coverage and goes a long way. I hope that helps!

    • Jazmin Felix says:

      Hi!

      Just wondering how much paint you used in all? I have about 20 cabinets, and I’m wondering how much paint to order.

      Thanks!
      Jazmin

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Jazmin! We used 3 quarts of the Seagull Gray and 1 pint of the Driftwood, and about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. I hope that helps!

    • Tasha: what color is the darkest one? Is that the one you used in your pantry door?
      Your kitchen look amazing…. Thanks for the Post!!

    • Bonnie says:

      Tasha,
      Thank you for this information. I ordered the Driftwood Milk Paint and Top Coat from your links above. I’m painting the cabinets in my bathroom. I’ve put the first top coat on and am wondering if you sanded between top coats. If you’ve already answered this, I’m sorry I missed it. The can says to sand with fine grit between top coats; I don’t want to sand if I don’t have to!
      Thanks!

    • Just found this on Pinterest…it seems it’s been almost a year since you painted your cabinets…can you tell me how they are holding up? We are considering painting ours and are looking at possible options.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Thanks, Cheryl! It’s been over a year and the paint is holding up PERFECTLY. The paint and top coat are absolutely amazing. I hope that helps!

    • Nicole says:

      Did you use the milk paint for your door? This is what I’m hoping to do for our home. Light cabinets on top, dark on the bottom, and even darker for our doors (we have those horribly cheap hollow fake wood doors) Looks like you used the darkest of the gray’s? Would it work on doors?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Nicole! The doors are just painted with just regular Latex paint. You can find the color listed in the source list on this post: . Milk paint would ABSOLUTELY work on doors. It’s amazing paint! I hope that helps!

    • Nicolette says:

      Tasha – Me again! Ok so I got my GF milk paint this past weekend. And I plan on getting the doors taken down tonite and get started painting tomorrow evening… my question is you say you emptied just the drawers…. is that so you could paint the inside of the drawer? I’m just confused why since the inside of the cabinets didn’t get painted. Maybe I’m missing something?

      Thank you!!!!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Nicolette! I just emptied the drawers so that I could stand the drawers up to paint the drawer fronts. I didn’t paint the inside of the drawers or cabinets to save time and paint! I DID paint the inside of the cabinet doors, but not the cabinet boxes or shelves. Does that help? Good luck!

    • Tara says:

      Hi – I love the color of the door shown in this picture. Is it a milk paint or something else?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Tara! That’s just regular Latex paint. You can find the color listed in the source list on this post: . I hope that helps!

    • Julia says:

      Can you apply this milk paint over latex painted cabinets? They are also glazed, so there are brush strokes which will probably have to be lightly sanded out before painting.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Julia! I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Jennifer says:

      I am very excited to see you post and will have to see if the product is available in Canada?

      I wondered, now that it’s been many months since you painted your kitchen, how the doors are holding up? Do they mark or chip easily?

      Thank you, for sharing your gorgeous renovation and taking the time to detail the process!

    • Sara says:

      Hi,
      Did you sand in between coats? We are planning to start painting our cabinets in a few weeks :) Thanks for this tutorial, I am excited to get started!

      Sara

    • Deb L. says:

      What did you apply the top coat with, roller, brush or ??

    • Brenna says:

      Would you recommend this milk paint for trim? We have ugly oak cabinets trim that I want to paint! Thanks!!!

    • Nancy says:

      Hi Tasha, this is inspiring! Do you use seagull grey for most of the cabinet? I checked the color on woodcraft.com, it is more grey-ish. Yours is more like off-white to me. Did you notice there is some difference between the color card and actual paint?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Nancy! Our cabinets are definitely a light grey–they are not white at all in person. The color looks just like the color card. I hope that helps!

    • linda says:

      i really want to redo my kitchen but a gallon of the general finishes pan is over 60 dollars hw much would you say you needed to redo your ktchen?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Linda! I believe we used 3 quarts of the light grey and 2 pints of the dark gray and about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. This paint goes A LONG way! I hope that helps!

    • Jen says:

      hello! I was extremely excited to find your tutorial on how to paint your kitchen cabinets without losing your mind! The only problem is, I already began and actually did about three fourths of the way, painting my cabinets with your original comment about latex, and the same thing happened and is continuing to happen to me which is the chipping and peeling. I have not yet completed the kitchen like I said, and the kitchen is not big however I have been extremely ill for about a year now and have three children that I raise on my own. I lost my job in December due to exhausting my FMLA with constant hospitalizations. I suffer from both serious stomach and heart condition. Having said that it is taking me quite long to get through the process of painting the cabinets. But now I am discouraged because like I said I made the mistake of using the latex and it is starting to look worse than it did when it was the original horrible 1970s wood color. Anyway, I am having an extremely hard time with both my health, and my finances. I was wondering if you could make a suggestion to General finishes milk Paint and ask if they would do the same for me and provide me with Paint to start my project over and hopefully before God decides it’s my time, finish what I started. I would appreciate it so very much and I also would like to ask you how do I go about completing this project now that I have ruined a good portion of the cabinets with the latex? Also, I have not thoroughly went through your posts and projects, but I do desperately need to redo the countertops as well. And because of my income being so small and the possibility of being evicted from our condo~which we barely fit in to begin with, I wanted to try to take that on as a DIY as well. I saw that you did a concrete project in the bathroom, but I wasn’t positive concrete would be a good choice in the kitchen. But maybe I’m wrong?if you could help me by reaching out to General finishes, I would be so extremely grateful for your effort. Also, I don’t know if the entire public can read this post, but if it is at all possible I would appreciate if it wasn’t completely public because I’m not sure how much my children can access what I have on the Internet and they are quite smart so it wouldn’t surprise me if they were able to somehow read this. But I do not want them worrying over the fact that I am extremely sick and over the possibility of losing their mom. I also don’t want my family to be able to read this because all it will take is one person that will say something to the wrong person and the telephone game will start and my children will inevitably find out. At the same token I do not plan to keep it from them entirely. I just do not want them to spend every single day worrying. I want to enjoy them and their life and what is left of mine as much as possible. Thank you so much and may you continue to beautify your surroundings with your creativity! You are an inspiration to all of us DIY’ers!!! Also just as you did, I will be happy to share my story of my kitchen project for General finishes! I am excited to hopefully get this project done the right way.

      Best regards, Jen.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Jen! I am so sorry to hear of all your struggles. I am not in a position to request that from General Finishes, but I wanted to let you know that I am praying for you and your children!

    • chris p. says:

      I am glad that i found your blog today. I have been torn between gel stain and milk paint. I was afraid that the matte finish of the milk paint would not offer a contemporary look but your kitchen was an inspiration! Would you mind sharing what type of material your countertop is? Thanks

    • Joanne Higgins says:

      Hi Tasha,
      How much milk paint did you use when painting your kitchen cabinets? I am not sure how much to buy and my kitchen looks alot like yours.
      Thanks,
      Joanne

    • Aphsa says:

      Inspiring!!!
      I have a concern. I read your blog too late. My kitchen is half way, I already sanded part of it. I just should apply de milk paint and then the top coat?
      One more thing. Do you know a technique to clean the drawer slide?
      Thank you

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Aphsa! The fact that you have sanded certainly won’t hurt! But, you don’t have to sand, as long as you use a liquid deglosser. Then you paint and apply the top coat! I do not know a technique to clean the drawer slide. Sorry!

    • Rhonda says:

      Hi!
      How much of the paint did you use? Does it come in gallon size?
      Thanks,
      Rhonda

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Rhonda! I believe we used 3 quarts of the light grey and 2 pints of the dark gray and about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. I hope that helps!

    • Lori L Edwards says:

      Hello Tasha,
      Your work is fantastic. Will GF milk work on Formica cabinets? If not, Do you have a product in
      mind that could save me from using a sledge hammer?
      You have so inspired me, I will be giving my bathroom counters(again Formica) the cement look.
      Anything I need to be concerned about?
      I also think HGTV needs you!

      lori

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Lori! You are so sweet–you totally made my night! I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • Amber says:

      Thanks so much for your post, it has been soo inspiring and full of information! I have a question, you mentioned that you didn’t paint the inside of your cabinets, did you chose not to paint the inside of your doors? Do you regret not doing so when you see both colors when you open them? Also, did you have to use some type of felt, etc. to prevent the doors from sticking? Thanks again – I’m definitely a rookie at this but soo excited to try!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Amber! We did paint the inside of the cabinet doors and all of the cabinet frames. I don’t at all regret not painting the inside of the cabinet boxes. We do use small, round felt pads on the doors to prevent sticking. I hope that helps!

    • Vakilism says:

      Tasha,

      Great transformation! I can’t tell from your photos but I was wondering if the high perfirmance top coat over the paint dries glossy or matt? Thanks

      • Tasha A. says:

        Thank you, Vakillism! I ordered the flat top coat, so it has VERY little sheen to it. It’s not as flat as flat paint, but it’s not shiny. I hope that helps!

    • Nicolette says:

      How many quarts of milk paint did you use on the cabinets? And how many quarts of the Polyurethane?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Nicolette! I believe we used 3 quarts of the light grey and 2 pints of the dark gray and about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. I hope that helps!

    • Rebecca says:

      Did you water down the paint at all? We started this project today and even when getting as little paint as possible on the roller or brush it is so gloppy and thick. Really concerned at this point we will have it sand it all off and try a different project. Not certain what we are doing wrong (we did wipe down with cleaning wipes and deglosser but didn’t sand even though other sites said you had to sand of this product). It just isn’t smooth at all and looks like when you see people use thick coats of regular latex.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Rebecca! No, we didn’t water the paint down at all and it was not at all thick and gloppy. Sounds like you may have gotten a bad batch! I would call General Finishes and talk to them ASAP! I am sure they will help you get it figured out. The milk paint I used was thick, but creamy and went on smoother than any paint I have ever used {and I have painted A LOT in my lifetime}. I hope you get it figured out. Keep me posted!

    • Kelly R says:

      Thanks for posting this, Tasha. I’m getting ready to tackle this type of project myself and have nearly cried as I read the “paint your cabinets like a pro” articles out there. I have a few questions about final look of your cabinets. Since you didn’t sand them, is the finish smooth, i.e. no ridges or grain showing through the paint? That’s my biggest concern. The cabinets I’m doing are unfinished oak cabinets so they are going to need a bit of sanding before hand. But did you really just apply one coat of the milk paint? Could you have applied a second? I’ve never used milk paint, but I’m very encouraged by your experience. Thanks again.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Kelly! We did apply 2 coats (see step 7). You can see the grain a bit through the paint, but the flat finish minimizes that. I hope that helps!

    • Connie says:

      Hi! I love your posts! How long ago did you paint your cabinets and how are they holding up now? Is there a way to take a close up of the wood grain that’s shows through the paint and share it with us? Like someone else that commented, I’m thinking of doing their Snow White on my oak cabinets but am concerned about the grain and yellowing. Thanks so much!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Thanks so much, Connie! We painted our cabinets about a year ago and they are holding up perfectly! You can see the grain, but I’m not sure I can capture it in a photo. The Snow White may yellow some with the top coat if you put it on too thickly and/or have any drips. I did not notice any yellowing on our light gray cabinets except for a few spots where I had some drips. I hope that helps!

    • Michelle A. says:

      You mentioned that you recommend applying the top coat in thin layers, but I’m wondering how you applied the top coat … with a brush? You didn’t have any brush strokes in the top coat either?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Michelle! I applied the top coat with a regular bristle paint brush and did not have a problem with brush strokes. I hope that helps!

    • JoAnn says:

      Thanks Tasha for posting this technique!

      I will preface this by saying I don’t work for General Finishes nor have I ever met Tasha. :). I think I have a unique perspective to add to this discussion. :)

      I stumbled upon this blog four months ago when I made the decision to change the color of our builders grade oak cabinets to black. I was SO EXCITED to try Tasha’s milk paint technique! I thought the brand of milk paint would NOT matter so I went to my local Woodcraft store and bought powdered milk paint from another company (I won’t name it in order to support my claim I dont know Tasha or work for GF :) The powdered milk paint was less expensive and seemed more authentic so I bought it. I go home, do the prep work as Tasha instructed and I was SO. DISAPPOINTED with the results. The milk paint looked rough and chalky and had clumps of the powder from (my fault) not mixing thoroughly enough. Frustrated, I stripped the paint off and switched to General Finishes gel stain..another fail. It looked clumpy around the cabinet face frames and streaky when light hit it at certain angles. I stripped the gel stain, went back toWoodcraft for advice and they handed me a can of the general finishes milk paint in lamp black.

      Holy moly! It indeed dries super fast, soaks into the wood like a wood dye and has a beautiful, non chalky, non streaky look after just two coats applied two hours apart. I’m kicking myself that I didn’t just start this project four months ago with GF milk paint…would’ve saved money and labor.

      MY POINT: In this case, the brand actually does matter (the people at Woodcraft also said the brand mattered because GF milk paint is made with “ingredients” that are different from powdered milk paint.

      Hope this helps someone!

      Thanks Tasha!!!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi JoAnn! Thanks SO MUCH for your perspective and for sharing your experience! I am sorry that you had a bad experience the first time around, but glad you are happy with the GF milk paint!

    • Charles says:

      Hi Tasha

      Wow! What an amazing site. Loved the kitchen makeover. I notice that you painted wooden kitchen cabinets. Would the Milk Paint work equally well on a laminated/shiny cabinet surface? Or would you need to take another intermediate step?

      All the Best

      Charles

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Charles! I have never tried it, but this is what General Finishes’ website says about its milk paint: “General Finishes milk paints will adhere to a variety of surfaces including wood, fiberglass, PVC, vinyl, and most composite materials. Additionally, these paints can be applied over existing finishes, stains and other paints so long as the existing finish is fully dry. However, when painting over other finishes, it’s important to always test a small area first to make sure the paint adheres well to the original surface.” I hope that helps!

    • tera says:

      I went and bought the paint. I am taking everything down tonight and following the steps! Any regrets and hindsight you can share!? Excited and scared!

      • Tasha A. says:

        No regrets at all, Tera! The only thing I would be more careful about the second time around is to be sure to apply THIN coats of the top coat. If you get any drips {we have a few} there is a slight yellow tint to the drips. Good luck! Let me know how yours turn out!

        • Tera says:

          Hi!!!This is my follow up to my question the other day. ((Also, I do not know you or work for Wood Craft or General Finishes)) I have to tell you that as I was preparing to go to the store to purchase the paint my husband got nervous and said “I don’t know this is a big project and I don’t know if you should do this” I protested and persuaded him with the info I got from your blog. Reluctantly he relented. So I had a lot to prove!!! He has MS so he was unable to physically assist but he gave me a lot of technical help. So I went and purchased the paint and I started my cabinet project Tuesday evening at 5:30 p.m. starting out with cleaning and prepping and taking down doors then I worked 10 to 12 hours a day and finished Saturday at 8:30 p.m. I did this project all on my own and have never done anything like this aside from painting walls. It was a lot of work but so worth it. I decided to go with Antique White. I followed your steps exact. Everything turned out perfect. No brush strokes . It is such a wonderful quality of paint. I was fortunate to have a Wood Craft store within a half hour drive. The workers were so helpful. I liked that I could see the paint in person. I was nervous about how small the cans were and if I would have enough – I used 2 and a quarter cans. I had 33 doors and 13 drawers to paint! I really feel that if I had used a regular paint that I would be disappointed. I am so happy to have these beautiful antique white cabinets. I was really NOT wanting to go the extra step and using the top coat. But I did it and I am very happy I did. It just finishes it off perfectly. I used a semi rather than flat. For anyone considering this project I say go for it! It was labor intensive and tedious at times but the transformation that it has brought to the kitchen at such a low cost (I spent $176 for all paint, topcoat and supplies I needed). And the best part is that at the end of it all my husband gave the best compliment which was “I am really pleased with your project!!” I am so happy! Thanks again.

          • Tasha A. says:

            YAY, YAY, YAY, Tera! I can’t tell you how happy I am that you had a good experience and that you took the time to tell me and my readers about it!

    • Colette says:

      Hi! I’m moving into my first house and my fiance and I are wanting to spruce up the kitchen. I’ve been looking for a milk paint product in Canada and I’m having difficulty finding one. What do you think about using chalk paint on your cabinets? Would it have the same effect or worse?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Colette! I don’t think chalk paint would achieve the same results. Have you tried calling General Finishes? Perhaps you could purchase your milk paint directly from it?

    • Sandy says:

      I love the way the cabinets look! I noticed the backsplash looks like it has been changed . Did you paint the backsplash as well? If so, how did you do this?

    • Kayla says:

      I am wondering if the Milk Paint did anything to cover the oak grain or if it made it more noticeable? Thanks!

    • Melissa P says:

      Just saw this on pinterest, how much paint did you use to finish this project? I have been dying to paint my cabinets grey and this post has got me totally inspired.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Melissa! I believe we used 2 or 3 quarts of the light grey and 2 pints of the dark gray and about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. I hope that helps!

    • Jag says:

      does the GF polyurethane turn yellow? I am concerned about using it over white milk paint.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Jag! I think on white paint, you would notice VERY slight yellowing. We have a couple of drips on our light gray cabinets and the drips are every so slightly yellow. Hope that helps. Thanks for reading my blog!

    • emily says:

      How much paint was needed for this project?

    • angie says:

      how much paint did you end up using?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Angie! I believe we used 2 or 3 quarts of the light grey and 2 pints of the dark gray and about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. I hope that helps!

    • Wendy ROGERS says:

      Your kitchen looks amazing . I have been wanting to do the same for many years , we have been in our home for 20 years and it was a beautiful wood kitchen when we built . Now however , 6 kids later and no time or much money to do anything … It’s extremely dated .. Although the bones of the kitchen are great . My question to you is, I live in Australia and I’m sure we don’t have that brand of paint … What do I look for over here ? Thanks for taking the time to read my email … Have a great day … Cheers Wendy

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Wendy! I don’t know of an alternative paint you can use, but you can buy this exact paint on Amazon. I hope that helps!

        • Esther says:

          You could look into the Annie Sloane Milk Paint line. It was first introduced in the UK, so you might be able to get it.

    • Maureen says:

      It sounds like you only used one coat of paint, is that correct? Do you see the grain of the oak though the paint? I can’t tell from the photos. Thanks!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Maureen! We used two coats of the paint. You can still see the oak grain, but the flat finish makes it less noticeable, in my opinion. Hope that helps!

    • Shawnda says:

      What about the particle board sides? I’m quite sure the sides of my cabinets are particle board. Will they hold the paint well?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Good question, Shawnda! I think this paint will adhere to pretty much anything, including particle board. I hope that helps.

    • Erin says:

      Hi Tasha,
      Just wanted to let you know that GF is running their 2015 Design Contest right now and there is a Best Kitchen Transformation category! We’d love it if you would submit your beautiful kitchen! There are great prizes to be won, https://generalfinishes.com/content/general-finishes-2015-contest/sponsors-and-prizes. You can enter here, https://generalfinishes.com/content/general-finishes-2015-contest (Note: the Best Kitchen Transformation category was a late addition to the contest so the web entry form may not have that category listed. We will manually sort out any kitchen transformations that are submitted. So just submit it under one of the other categories :) )
      -Erin from the GF Marketing Team

    • Lacee says:

      How much of the paint and poly did you have to buy for this project? I was looking at Amazon, and all I could find were quarts. Thanks!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Lacee! I believe we used 2 or 3 quarts of the light grey and 2 pints of the dark gray and about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. I hope that helps!

    • Jane Lewis says:

      How much paint did it take to finish your cabinets? I am wanting to do mine with the General Finishes Milk paint also…

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Jane! I believe we used 2 or 3 quarts of the light grey and 2 pints of the dark gray and about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. I hope that helps!

    • Saxon says:

      Where is thw best place to buy this paint? Amazon? Also if i contact the paint will they send you free samples?

      Thanks

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Saxon! Some wood working shops sell it, but otherwise Amazon is your best best. I do not know if General Finishes will send out free samples, but you could call and ask. I hope that helps!

    • Diana says:

      Great tutorial! Can’t wait to try it out! Do you recall the type of spray paint and clear coat that was used on your hinges? I’ve tried this before and the paint chips. How are yours holding up?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Diana! Ours are holding up really well–I am pleasantly surprised! I believe both the spray paint AND clear coat were Valspar.

    • Dena says:

      I was wondering if your cabinets were real wood or laminate. I’ve been researching ways to paint my cabinets but I want to find the simplest ways possible and this seems like it but my cabinet doors are laminate. I was wondering if it would work the same or if I would need to sand them?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Dena! Our cabinets are solid wood. For laminate, I would test the process I used on one door and see if you get good adhesion with just using the liquid deglosser.

    • Anne says:

      Hi. I have oak cabinets that are several shade darker than yours. I am concerned with how to hide the grain. There are various other products to fill in the grain before you apply paint. Do you play that that is necessary or should the milk paint cover the grain? Thank you. It looks like he did a great

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Anne! You can still see the oak grain, but the flat finish makes it less noticeable, in my opinion. Hope that helps! And thank you!

    • Kristen says:

      I stumbled across Part 2 of your Kitchen make-over, and have now spent over an hour reading that and other projects on your blog! Thank you for sharing!

      I’ve been using the Anne Sloan Chalk Paint for some furniture makeovers (which I love) and my husband was talking about maybe doing our kitchen cabinets in the AS Chalk Paint. I had only heard the term Milk Paint a few times, but this was the first time I’ve read about using it. I know from using the AS Chalk Paint it doesn’t take much to cover a large area (it also comes by the quart). How many quarts of the Milk Paint did it take to do your cabinets? I’m now wondering if the Milk Paint may be a better option for the cabinets than the AS Chalk Paint.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Kristen! Thanks so much for reading my blog! This paint does go a long way! I believe we used 2 or 3 quarts of the light grey and 2 pints of the dark gray and about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. I hope that helps!

    • carol marino says:

      I was wondering how well the paint covered the grain of the oak cabinets or if the many cats of topcoat covered all that….. I have an oak kitchen too. Can you comment and/or show a close up Tasha? Thanks so much.

    • kenna says:

      Did you use the quart size or the gallon to do your cabinets?? I have I little more cabinets than you and I wanted to see if the quart would be enough.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Kenna! I believe we used 2 or 3 quarts of the light grey and 2 pints of the dark gray and about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. I hope that helps!

    • April says:

      I am wondering how your cabinets have held up. It looks like it has been 6 mos or so. Please let me know…concerned about the durability.

      • Tasha A. says:

        They have held up PERFECTLY, April! I am thrilled with the durability. No peeling, chipping, etc. They are still in perfect condition. Hope that helps!

    • Elizabeth Bushey says:

      What did you use to paint your back splash tiles? Does the milk paint have a lot of fumes? I am on oxygen and I really want to redo my kitchen cabinets, but I couldn’t handle it if were to strong. It’s a beautiful makeover!!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Elizabeth! We used the milk paint on the backsplash also. All the details can be found here: . My mom has COPD and is on oxygen as well. I did not find the milk paint to have a lot of fumes–certainly no more than regular latex paint. I hope that helps!

    • carol says:

      I was also thinking of painting my oak cabinets but wondered how I would feel about the grain showing through. I thought it might be too many steps to cover the grain. Does the grain show through on your painted cabinets or do the multiple coats of paint and topcoat minimize that problem?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Carol! The wood grain definitely shows through the paint, though it’s far less noticeable with the flat finish. I hope that helps!

    • Cheryl says:

      Can you paint the milk paint over cabinets that have already been painted without priming them first?

      • Tasha A. says:

        As long as the paint that is underneath is NOT oil-based, you should be able to paint over it with this. I hope that helps, Cheryl!

    • Brittney Betzold says:

      How much of the milk paint and top coat did you guys need for your cabinets? I saw it costed you about $300 on hardware but what did you spend on the paint and top coat?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Brittney! I don’t remember the cost, but I believe we used 2 or 3 quarts of the light grey and 2 pints of the dark gray and about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. I hope that helps!

    • cristy says:

      How have the cabinets been holding up? Any issues with the paint chips?

    • Carmi says:

      What if my existing cabinets are a dark brown, expresso color? Can I paint them with a lighter color without using twice as much of the GF milk paint? I’m on a tight budget!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Carmi! That I am not sure of. I have not used the paint on a really dark color, so I am not sure how that would affect coverage. I can tell you that generally, the coverage for this paint is EXCEPTIONAL and a little goes a long way. I hope that helps.

        • Susan Schrader says:

          My cabinets doors are like shiny and I do not think they are real wood. Maybe laminate, how can I paint them?

          • Tasha A. says:

            Hi Susan! You should be able to follow the same process, but you may want to try it on a small drawer or something first to make sure you get good adhesion. You could also call and ask General Finishes for their advice. I hope that helps!

    • Jennifer says:

      By the way, I was very excited after reading your process for painting your cabinets with milk paint and decided I’d like to do the same… But if you don’t own a furniture painting business of some kind or if you don’t have a DIY blog of some kind, which I dont( just a normal gal wanting to update my kitchen) then there is no possible way to get samples of this stuff… I have tried going through retailers… And asking GF directly ( there is no # to call either this was through FB) if I can’t get some samples it’s pointless because I’m not going to purchase a lot of paint before I’m sure if the color and I don’t know who would!!!

    • Macey says:

      I’m looking at redoing my kitchen cabinets with General Finishes. I was wondering how many quarts did it take to paint all of your cabinets?

    • amy besselman says:

      I’m just curious about coverage.. can you tell me about how many quarts/gallons you used for the cabinets?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Amy! We used 3 quarts of the light grey and 2 pints of the dark grey, I believe. I hope that helps!

        • amy besselman says:

          Thanks so much! I ordered a pint to try on some cabinets in my laundry room – this is the test run. I’m so excited to try this product out – love that it’s an American Made company. If i’m successful with the laundry cabinets – I’ll be tackling the 40 cabinets in my kitchen!! Wish me luck!

    • Shannon says:

      I love this redo!! I was sold on using Paint Couture paint to do my cabinets but now I’m considering this. I’m thinking of similar colors, but the opposite of your kitchen (dark grey cabinets, light countertop and backspash, light grey island)

    • R.E. says:

      You used the FLAT top coat? What made you decide on flat instead of Satin?

      I wanted to use the milk paint to paint all my interior doors. If it’s good enough for kitchen cabinets, interior doors should be no problem! (except the cost I suppose lol). Just wish it was easier to find out how glossy their Satin top coat is.

      • Tasha A. says:

        I chose a flat top coat because I did not want a sheen on my cabinets. I don’t know how how glossy the Satin top coat is–sorry! I can tell you that even the flat top coat has SOME sheen to it, just very little.

    • Melanie says:

      Kitchen looks great. How much paint did it take to do your cabinets??

    • Laurie says:

      How do you figure out how much milk paint you need?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Laurie! We used 3 quarts of the light grey and 2 pints of the dark grey, I believe. I hope that helps!

        • Lacey Linder says:

          Tasha, I love the colors yours turned out, When I am looking through Amazon, the Seagull Gray looks darker than your pictures. I don’t want a bright white, the light subtle gray is what I am looking for. OR was Seagull Gray not the lighter gray used in your upper cabinets?!

          • Tasha says:

            Lighting definitely makes a difference. It is seagull on our main cabinets and driftwood on the island (which is much darker). We do love the color! Good luck!

    • Laurie says:

      Love your kitchen. How do you know how much paint to buy?

    • Emily says:

      Do you know if this paint can be used on cabinets that have already been painted? Do I need to sand/strip/prime or any of that?? Thanks!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Emily! It depends on whether the existing paint is oil-based or water-based. If it’s water-based, you should e able to just paint right over it after using a liquid deglosser!

    • LeeAnn says:

      I live the grey cabinets. I am thinking about painting my cabinets exactly the same color. However, I thought about glazing them with a black color. How do you think this will look and is it OK to do this over the milk paint ?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi LeeAnn! I love the idea of glazing on top of the milk paint, but I honestly don’t know how you would need to go about it. The folks at General Finishes are INCREDIBLY helpful and I am sure could answer any questions you have. I would recommend that you contact GF directly to ask about glazing over milk paint. I hope that helps!

      • LeeAnn says:

        Love the cabinets not “live the cabinets”

    • Lisa says:

      I am going to be your number one fan! Just found your website this morning regarding the bedskirts, and now I am seeing tips on EVERY single project I have wanted to do, but just haven’t.

      I have considered painting my oak kitchen cabinets since we moved in last year. Just haven’t had the nerve. I took a chalk painting class recently and thought this is the way to go (no sanding or priming either). I’d never heard of milk paint though. Do you know the difference between milk & chalk? Were you able to buy the milk paint in a store or online only? Thanks so much for the time you spend sharing this info with your readers! Your blog is the BEST.

    • Deb says:

      Love the angle of painting cabinets without losing your mind. Like you had, we have honey/orangey oak. It’s gotta change. Did the General Finishes milk paint have even coverage? I’ve worked with other milk paints that had imperfect coverage, intentionally. That’s fine for some things but not for our kitchen cabinets. I like the “no brush strokes.” Some people use a sprayer but you give me something that plugs into an electrical outlet, and I make a mess. Better to brush or roll!

    • Lorie Newcomb says:

      I’m getting ready to redo my kitchen and was really glad to find a pin for your kitchen. Did you really NOT sand? What did you do to clean the cabinets off? Thanks for your time and your tutorial!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Lorie! We REALLY did not sand. We just used a liquid deglosser. We used Lysol wipes to clean the cabinets off. I hope that helps!

    • Mitchell says:

      Looks great. Do you think this paint would stick to newer, glossier cabinets without sanding? Thanks.

    • Kathy says:

      Just discovered your blog and love it! Any idea if this paint would adhere well to formica cabinets? My kitchen needs to get out of the ’80s! Thank you.

    • Crystal Hokanson says:

      Just ordered my GF Milk Paints & Poly, plus the Deglosser via your Amazon links. Can’t wait to get started on mine!!! Thank you for such a thorough, helpful post!

    • Coy Freeman says:

      What great timing. I walked into a specialty lumber store last weekend and they had a few colors of General Finishes Milk Paint on 50% discount. I figured, why not? I can experiment with this stuff. I got a quart and then, whah-lah, here’s your tutorial.

    • Silvia says:

      Hi, I notice that the paint is a rather matte finish, which personally I like. However for cleaning purposes (being a kitchen) how do you manage any buildup on the cabinets?

    • Laura says:

      I used General Finish Java gel on my bathroom vanity and I love it. Just curious if the milk paint and finish are as easy to use? Thanks for this post, I’ll be checking out the milk paint and gathering my courage to paint my kitchen cabinets. Yours look beautiful!

    • Anne says:

      Gorgeous results! Just one question: what product did you use to refinish door in black?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Anne! I used Valspar latex paint in Kettle Black. It’s sold at Lowe’s. I hope that helps!

        • LeeAnn says:

          Did you think about glazing the cabinets?? What kind of look do you think that would have given them? I want to paint my cabinets with the milk paint seagull gray, however I am thinking about glazing a dark black glaze over them? And if I do that will I use the poly coat after the glaze or before? Just wondering what your thoughts are. Thanks

    • Jeanette voth says:

      Hi I love your kitchen makeover! I really want to do mine this summer. I was wondering how much paint you had to get to complete your kitchen? Thanks so much!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Jeanette! I think we used 3 quarts of the light gray, 2 pints of the dark grey and 1/2 gallon of the top coat. This product goes a long way! I hope that helps!

    • Tricia says:

      How much paint did you use? I don’t want to run run out of paint and have to wait for more to be mailed to me.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Tricia! We used 3 quarts of the light gray and 2 pints of the dark gray. We used about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. I hope that helps!

    • Tamara says:

      Hi there, great job on your kitchen! We have a tile mess at our house so you inspired me to try and fix it. I do have a few questions though.
      Is the paint holding up well with the grease and wht not of kitchens?
      Does the seagull gray look gray or just off white? ( im worried about it looking funny with white appliances)
      Did you use the flat finish for the top coat for the cabinets and back splash and were you happy withe the look it gave?

      Thanks so much!!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Tamara! The paint is holding up PERFECTLY. It’s amazing! The Seagull Gray really does look gray. I did use the flat finish for the top coat and am happy with that choice. It did add a tiny bit of sheen, so it is not as “flat” and flat paint, but I love it! Best of luck!

    • Kristen Stewart says:

      So excited to try this product and your steps on my kitchen cabinets. I have been hesitating due to the challenges of acrylic & not wanting to deal with oil. We are needing to spruce up our kitchen on a dime. We need to do some new appliances so saving on cabinets will help. I had a couple of questions. How much paint & poly did you use on your project? Also I am trying to achieve a color that is close to the color of IKEA Hemnes gray-brown finish (but opaque) do you have any suggestions as to what colors I might blend to achieve that with the General Finishes milk paint. I’m kind of going for a light to med greige.

      Thx a bunch for your post & ideas

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Kristen! We used 3 quarts of the Seagull Gray, 2 pints of the Queenstown Gray and about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. You could try blending some of the light gray and brown to achieve that Hemnes gray-brown finish. If it gets too dark, add some white. Hope that helps!

    • Shandy says:

      Trying to figure out how many quarts I need to purchase, did you paint the back of the cabinet doors? And how long did you allow the cabinet doors to dry before rehanging them?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Shandy! We used 3 quarts of the light gray and 2 pints of the dark gray. We used about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. We DID paint and seal the back of the doors. We re-hung them as soon as they were dry! I hope that helps!

    • Angie says:

      Hi Tasha! I love all of your wonderful transformation projects. I was so inspired by your kitchen makeover that I have decided to tackle painting my kitchen cabinets as well. In fact I got the same two colors of General Finishes milk paint that you did. Last night I did one cabinet door as a test and when I woke up this morning I see there are cracks in the finish along some of the nooks and crannies of the cabinet (I have grooves in my cabinets such as you, set down in an inlay with an arch). What did It do wrong? Can this be remedied?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Angie! Hmmmm…. Did you use the liquid deglosser and clean the cabinet door first? Have you already applied two coats? It does take two coats to get complete coverage. What exactly do you mean by “cracks”? I didn’t have anything I would describe as “cracks,” but there was still quite a bit of wood grain visible before I applied the second coat. If you can give me more info (maybe even a photo), I’ll try to help more. My email is tasha{at}designertrapped.com.

    • Melanie says:

      Thanks for this fantastic tutorial. Well, it has been over six months. How are your cabinets holding up? Just wondering about how easy they are for cleaning and durability.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Melanie! The cabinets are holding up PERFECTLY. I am astounded by how durable they are, because we aren’t exactly easy on our cabinets. Hope that helps!

    • Bajohnston says:

      This is by far the most impressive kitchen makeover I have seen so far. Great job!! I am just starting my kitchen. It is huge. I have a lot of cabinets to do. If I email you a few pictures could you give me your thoughts? I have one small section done in annie sloan country grey chalk paint with soft wax.

    • Tim says:

      Hi, best post so far on redoing kitchen cabinets with paint…and I’ve been doing alot of research into various DIY.

      How many hours would you guess was actually spent doing it (not including waiting for things to dry and stuff)?

      As simple as you made it seem and inspiring, I am still evaluating having someone come and do it (either a professional or a local DIY’er) using *your* instructions and paint recommendations….but want to guesstimate the actual time….thanks, great post!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Thanks so much, Tim! Gosh….I would guess we spent around 8 hours of time painting and then applying the top coat. I don’t think it was more than that, but it very well may have been less. It’s hard to judge because we worked on it in short chunks of time, plus it was broken up by drying time (though this paint dries VERY quickly, which is awesome). I hope that helps! Happy new year!

    • Hilda says:

      Also, to Katrina Green who was looking for the top coat in Canada, There is someone in Quebec, Canada who carries the high performance top coat:

      https://artdec.ca/en/p/439/high-performance-top-coat

      Available in satin, gloss, and semi-gloss. Unfortunately, no flat :(

    • Hilda says:

      Hi,
      Thank you so much for this information! I’ve been wanting to paint my cabinets forever, and I am going to track down this paint here in Montreal Do you know what the difference is with the milk paint you used, and the ENDURO milk paint General Finishes has on their site?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Hilda! I am not positive, but I think the ENDURO is meant for floors. I used the regular milk paint. I hope that helps. Happy new year!

    • KC says:

      A friend sent me a link to your site and I’m so grateful!! We’re closing on a foreclosed condo in a few weeks and I’m going to copy your kitchen cabinets!! Seagull grey up top and Driftwood on bottom, with a Royal Design (teal/blue ish) stencil in the ‘backsplash’ area above cabinets!!
      I was super nervous, but after reading your post a bazillion times I’m confident it will be great!
      For the paint did you use flat, semi-gloss etc…???

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi KC! Your sweet comment made my night! I think the milk paint only comes in 1 finish. It’s the top coat that you have to select the sheen for. I used matte, which has a tiny bit of sheen. BEST OF LUCK TO YOU! FYI, the paint goes a long way! I used about 3 quarts of the Seagull Gray for all of the cabinets and 2 pints of the Queenstown Gray. Also, it took only about 1/2 gallon of the top coat for the cabinets and the back splash. Please let me know how it turns out!

        • KC says:

          Yes I will definitely! You actually had me convinced to paint the vinyl floor too (much to the amused looks of everyone I told). But we’re having to rip of the flooring (carpet) in the rest of the house and it’s a small kitchen so it will be better and not much more $ to have them continue the tile (wood-looking) through the kitchen. And I am sadly disappointed that I’ll have no floors to paint.

          • KC says:

            Ok. It’s me again!! How many quarts of the top coat (high performance finish) did you use?! I just realized I should have ordered more!

            Also, for those looking, I found a company that ships the General Finishes (cheap shipping too), and they shipped it to us in Hawaii! Which seems to be a feat! http://wmfinishes.com

            • Tasha A. says:

              Hi KC! I ordered my top coat in a gallon size and we only used about 1/2 of the gallon. It goes a long way, even when applying multiple coats. I hope that helps. So glad you were able to get it shipped to you! Good luck!

    • Stephanie says:

      I finally did it and it looks amazing!!! Thank you for giving me the courage to go through with it!!!

    • Kelly M says:

      Thank you for this post…it’s amazing and just what I needed to see before I paint my cabinets this spring.

      On a side note I found a website with some great hardware. We also have several cabinets and the price to update it all can be very expensive. We used a site http://www.99centknobs.com and found exactly what we were looking for.

    • […] We saved about$1,800.00 by building our own table and it’s exactly what we wanted!  It’s the perfect finishing touch on our kitchen makeover that cost us less than $700.00 to complete.  Want to see the full reveal?  You can check out part 1 here and part 2 here.  You can also learn all about how we painted our kitchen cabinets without sanding or priming here! […]

    • Katrina Green says:

      Thank you so much for an awesome post! My boyfriends house is a fixer upper so we are planning on re doing the kitchen, (after his failed attempt at painting the cabinets himself) we are excited to try your method! I live in alberta canada and have found a retailer for general finishes milk paint but unfortunately no one in alberta that I can find online carries the General Finishes High Performance Top Coat. Do you have any other recommendations for a durable top coat? Thanks!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Katrina! I really do not know of any other top coats that you can use. Try doing a Google search for an acrylic top coat–I think that is the most important part. Good luck on your project!!!

    • kxray says:

      What brand spray paint did you use for hardware? Beautiful results!

    • Aimee says:

      How many quarts of milk paint did you use? How many quarts of top coat did you use?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Aimee! I believe we used 3 quarts of the light grey, 2 pints of the dark grey and about 1/2 gallon of the top coat. This paint goes much further than you could imagine. I hope that helps!

    • Dawn Samuels says:

      Love this! I am hoping to redo our kitchen this next year. I am wondering if all your cabinets were solid wood – or if any of the frames were laminate.? Would this paint work on laminate?

    • Danna says:

      Hi. I want to paint my cabinets and there is a glossy finish on them. If I use the products you mentioned I don’t have to sand them?
      Thanks. Love the way your kitchen came out!

    • Jessica says:

      I too am a designer trapped in a lawyer’s body…well sort of. I just retired from the law as my son went off to college. I now have more free time than I know what to do with, which has proven dangerous. My husband and I just bought a summer home that needed a little work. I painted the outdated, but in great condition, kitchen cabinets. However, I used Annie Sloan chalk paint (Paris Gray). With AS paint there is no need to sand, strip or prime before painting, it’s amazing stuff. Although AS suggested using their wax as a finish, I instead used the General Finishes High Performance Top Coat in satin, three coats, and they came out beautifully! I wanted something that would be more durable for a kitchen and General Finishes makes the most amazing and easy to use top coat. Get out there and paint, people! Whether you use GF milk paint or AS chalk paint, you’ll be hooked!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Thanks so much for the tip, Jessica! Glad you like the GF high performance top coat. I will have to give AS paint a try–I have never used it! Sounds like you will have plenty to keep you busy with your son off at college. Congrats on retiring from the practice of law!

    • Judy says:

      Hi,

      How do you think this product compares Rustoleum’s cabinet transformation kit? Everyone raves about it too and also promotes no sand no priming as well. We are thinking of repainting our kitchen cabinets.

    • brenda says:

      I LOVE this! My only concern is that my yucky oak kitchen has ‘oak like’ laminate on the 2 ends of the cabinet runs. Will this milk paint work on that?

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Brenda! I think it would work on laminate, but I would sand and prime JUST the laminate before painting it with the milk paint to improve adhesion. I hope that helps!

    • Linda says:

      My husband and I just recently bought a house that the kitchen cabinets are white and you can see the brush strokes. Do think I would need to sand before trying this product so brush marks will not show up?

    • Deb Brewer says:

      Can you tell me if now, after 5 months, the paint on the kitchen cabinets is holding up well? Thanks!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Deb! I am seriously AMAZED that the paint is holding up PERFECTLY. No scratches, no chipping, no peeling. I think the paint is amazing and the top coat really protects it. I hope that helps!

    • Tahnee says:

      OMG, I THINK I LOVE YOU! We hare hopefully purchasing our first home and choosing to put our money on location and square footage which means an outdated 80’s hulk. Saving up for all cosmetic renovations, as in probably one per year. With my full time teacher job and his full time night shift truck driver job and two little girls I need low budget, time friendly fixes. THIS IS AWESOME! I will be following all of your upcoming projects!
      Tahnee

      • Tasha A. says:

        LOL! So happy to be a help, Tahnee! I am all about low-budget and time effective fixes, too. So happy you are now reading my blog. Good luck on all your renovations!

    • Hi there, the kitchen makeover is fabulous. Do you know if this paint is available in the UK? Or do you have an email address for General, so I can find out for myself please? Many thanks

    • […] PS- We also painted the vanity cabinet for a quick update.  We used the same process and paint as we did when we painted our kitchen cabinets, which you can read all about here. […]

    • Danielle Binkowski says:

      Love your re-do and looking to repaint our kitchen cabinets as well.

      What I am wondering is how much paint (ie gallon, guarts, etc…) did you have to buy to complete your project. Also, does top coat go a long way. My kitchen is similar to your w/o the island.

      Thank you for your input!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Thanks so much! The top coat goes a LONG way! We used about 1/2 a gallon for the entire kitchen. We used about 2 quarts of the light grey and 1 quart of the dark grey. I hope that helps!

    • Katie B says:

      Where were you able to get the samples of the milk paint? Can’t wait to try this!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Katie! I got them directly from General Finishes. I think you can purchase them at Woodcraft, or possibly on Amazon. Hope that helps!

    • kacey says:

      Oh my gosh that looks amazing!! Were buying a new house with those yellow oak cabinets and I have gone back and forth between paint and the java gell! Can you still skip the sanding part with the java gel stain? Also what are your thoughts on a smaller kitchen having dark cabinets??? Would it make it look smaller? The countertops are a white tile, with light tile floors, so i feel like our cabinets need to be darker for contrast!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Kacey! I believe you can also skip the sanding with the java gel stain, which we seriously considered, but we felt it would be too dark in our kitchen. I think you can have dark cabinets in a small kitchen as long as you have plenty of natural light coming into the space, especially with white tile and light floors. I really think that dark colors can sometimes make a room look larger, believe it or not. Hope that helps!

    • Christina says:

      Love this.. I usually love chalk paint but love the glass like finish that the milk paint has.. General Finishes. Did you have any trouble with covering wood grain?
      Thanks,
      Christina Casey

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Christina! The milk paint itself has a very velvety, flat finish. The protective top coat adds a tiny bit of sheen in flat {which is what I used}. But the protective top coat is available in gloss finishes also. I did not have any trouble covering the wood grain. This paint gives EXCELLENT coverage. Hope that helps!

    • Wendi says:

      We did this last week and followed your instructions and……….WE LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!!! So happy with how it turned out. Thank you for all of your ideas!!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Oh Wendi, you made my day! So glad you followed my tutorial and were happy with the results. Thanks for letting me know!

        • Jill says:

          do you think the top coat will give a yellowish tint if doing white cabinets? Every time I do white and put a top coat it gets yellow:(

          • Tasha A. says:

            Hi Jill! The top coat is a polyacrylic, so there should be very little discoloration, but I do think it would alter a white a bit. It did not affect either of the grey colors that I used, but I think it would ever so slightly affect a stark white. I hope that helps!

    • Michelle says:

      Question Tasha, Man do I wish I had seen this before we started mine! We’ve got a mess & I don’t know how I’m going to straighten it out either! :-(. ANY WAY, can you paint a laminate backsplash (or countertops for that matter)? If so, where can I find instructions?

      Thank you SO much!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Michelle! Hmmm, I honestly don’t know. I have never tried painting laminate countertops or backsplash. But, my guess is that you absolutely could do it with the General Finishes Milk Paint and protective top coat. I would give it a shot {but I am kind of a risk taker}. I wish I could give you a more definitive answer!

    • […] Driftwood Milk Paint by General Finishes.  {You can read all the details about how we painted our kitchen cabinets and about the protective top …}. […]

    • Leanne Perez says:

      Your cabinets look great! I was wondering if for the High Performance Top Coat you used flat, satin or gloss.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Thank you, Leanne. I used flat finish in the Top Coat. But it’s not FLAT like flat paint. There is a tiny bit of sheen to it. Hope that helps!

    • Sandy F says:

      I love the stunning transformation. Quick question though: Did you paint both sides of the cabinet doors, or just the outside? Thank you for sharing.

    • Amazing Tasha!!! PInning right now! How did I never know about this paint before???

    • Amy says:

      Did you really not sand? The tutorial on the GF site shows the guy sanding. Also how old would you guess your cabinets to be? We’re rocking 1979 builder’s special in our house. I had painted the kids bathroom cabinet w/ primer and latex paint and also found it chipped right away. But even w/ the chipping it was 1000% better then the old nasty dark brown builder’s special they had.

      I’ve wanted to paint our cabinets, and I’ve been debating the 10,000 pintrest tutorials vs the rustoleum kit. But this (milk paint) sounds like it could be a dream!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Amy! I REALLY did not sand. I used “liquid sandpaper,” also known as liquid deglosser. That’s it! It was super quick and easy prep. Our cabinets are original to our house, which was built in 1986, so not much newer than yours! I painted our laundry room cabinets with primer and latex paint and experienced chipping right away as well. So far, our kitchen cabinets are in PERFECT condition even in the face of constant use {which is more than I can say about our laundry room cabinets}. You may want to test the method on one cabinet door first. That’s what I did! I hope that helps :)

        • Glenda says:

          Thank you Tasha for this blog on painting kitchen cabinets. Two weeks ago I had a professional come in to give me an estimate on Labor (I would buy the paint) & I freaked. Now I feel confident that I can handle it thanks to discovering this General Finishes Milk paint & your blog. I originally used oil based paint on my cabinets & hated every minute of it…plus the fact that they don’t look so good. That’s been 14 years ago. I appreciate the heads up about the deglosser also. I never knew that existed. Your kitchen looks great & thanks again for the info.

          • Tasha A. says:

            Thank you, Glenda! So happy you found my post useful. I am not 100% positive you can go right over oil-based paint with milk paint. A quick call to General Finishes should be able to answer that question! Let me know how your project turns out.

    • Morgan Spaulding says:

      Can you use a paint sprayer for the application for either the milk paint and/or the top coat?

    • Rosie says:

      Interesting! I’ve heard of milk paint before in furniture refinishing context. Its GREAT for that chippy paint look and style (which would be not-so-great for cabinets). I wonder what makes this particular milk pain different. Does it come pre-mixed? Most milk paints on the market for furniture are powdered.

      We did the cabinets in our last house (less the an year ago… we finished the cabinets and promptly sold the house) with Ben Moore Advanced paint, which I LOVED, but it was a whole bunch of work sanding and priming… it must have taken us 2 solid weeks with both me and my husband working on it every evening after the kids went to bed.

      I just got out Ben Moore Advanced again this past week to paint a desk for my daughter, and it has me thinking about painting the cabinets in our new house. Such a big project, but the impact is so worth it! I’ll be interested to see how the milk paint hold up over the long term.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Rosie! The General Finishes milk paint does come pre-mixed. It is a high quality acrylic paint. So far, our cabinets are holding up PERFECTLY even with our young twin girls banging into them with chairs and their toy grocery cart. We finished painting them about 10 weeks ago. So far, so good! I’ll plan to post a 6 month and 1 year update as well :)

    • I’m pinning this for later. We hope to buy a cheap fixer-upper in a few years and your helpful hints will be greatly appreciated! Visiting from SITS.

    • I love the colors you used. The transformation is absolutely amazing, its very chic and elegant.

    • Charlotte says:

      WOAH! That is QUITE the transformation! I love the idea of salvaging all that wood and simply refinishing what you have–it’s nice to give a completely new look to something you already have :)

      Stopping in today from SITS–hope you enjoy your day in the spotlight. You have a beautiful blog here!

    • Lana says:

      Stopping by from SITS. Love your blog! I totally needed to see this post today – we want to repaint the cabinets in our bathroom, and I hadn’t heard of this paint before. Thank you!!!! Have a great weekend.

    • Elizabeth says:

      Awesome. I cannot believe how great that looks. It is like a brand-new kitchen. Great tutorial and beautiful site. I can’t believe you have time to do this and everything else! Happy SITS!

    • Paula Kiger says:

      Congrats on your SITS feature!

    • Stephanie says:

      This is FABULOUS news. I have pinned a billion kitchens (including Kim’s, lol!) and keep putting off painting because I can’t bring myself to sand and prime all these cabinets. SO. MANY. CABINET. DOORS. (I know, first world problems!)

      I am ordering this milk paint ASAP. How much paint did you go through? Our kitchens look similarly sized. Wondering how much I should grab.

      • Tasha A. says:

        Great question, Stephanie! I actually need to add that to my post. We used just over two quarts of the Seagull Gray (which covered all the perimeter cabinets) and a pint on the island. We purchased a gallon of the top coat and still have quite a bit left. This paint goes FAR! I could not believe it. I hope you love the paint as much as we do! Let me know how they turn out!

    • […] Now, turning our attention to the OTHER side of the eat-in-area, allow me to introduce you to our fun and functional chalkboard wall where the base cabinets now reside.  LOVE this area.  The door you see leads to our garage.  This is the door we use 95% of the time, so having the cabinets right there is so convenient for placing bags, etc. that we either need to grab on our way out OR to drop off when we walk in.  You can read all about my tutorial for painting your kitchen cabinets without losing your mind here. […]

    • […] I think it’s fair to say that painting the cabinets and backsplash has the most dramatic impact in the space.  You can see my tutorial for how to paint your kitchen cabinets without losing your mind here. […]

    • Esther says:

      Truly AMAZING!! Great job, as always! I recently painted my cabinets but don’t love the color…do you think the milk paint will adhere to that?
      Also, any recommendations on the spray paint you used for the hardware?
      And where did you get the lighting? Just love those!!
      I also wanted to add that I found some amazing hardware on Amazon by a company called Cosmas!

      Thanks again for sharing!

    • Kate says:

      How long have they been done for now? Are they still chip free? I wasn’t sure exactly when you completed painting.

      Kim – I actually happened to notice your tutorial a couple days ago on Pinterest!

      • Tasha A. says:

        Hi Kate! We finished the painting and top coat about 6 weeks ago. They are still in perfect condition. I plan to post an update at the 6 month mark, but I am confident they will be holding up just as well then. The other cabinets I have painted with regular paint chipped almost right away. SO different from our kitchen cabinet experience with the General Finishes Milk Paint! I hope that helps!

    • I painted my cabinets a few years ago with the exact same setup and it really does make all the difference in the world that you can leave everything in the cabinets, and not paint the interiors. Being able to go from start to finish in under a week is great too. That is just as fast as paying someone to paint them, but without have people in your house! It is super funny that my post about it titled the exact same thing! Great minds think alike!! http://www.thekimsixfix.com/2012/08/how-to-paint-your-kitchen-cabinets.html

      • Tasha A. says:

        Kim! That is hilarious that our posts are titled the same way. That’s the only way I could think to describe it :) I have seen your kitchen so many times on Pinterest–love it! So nice to connect you to such fabulous project :)

    • Jessica says:

      Now I’m totally pumped about doing our kitchen cabinets ourselves! We’ve been trying to decide for YEARS what to do…hire a professional or do it ourselves. If we can save thousands by doing it ourselves and also using product that will withstand our boys, then we’re sold! Thanks so much for this tutorial! Sending it to hubby now!

      • Tasha A. says:

        You really can tackle it yourself, Jessica! After you do the two coats of paint, you will think, “NOW I HAVE TO DO 3 COATS OF THE PROTECTIVE FINISH?!” but it really does move pretty quickly and makes such a difference for durability. Just stay the course! I hope your husband is on board!

    • Kathryn says:

      Tasha that is a super job and you make it sound easy. I wonder if that paint can be used on formica covered cabinets?

    • Katie says:

      This is such a relief to see! The fact that I don’t have to sand the doors and prime them and that I won’t have to paint a million layers is beyond relief! Lol. Thanks for posting

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